|The Main Wall
|SEASONAL CLOSURE TAKES EFFECT 1/15/13!! No top access - private land MORE INFO >>>|
Fall Line is amazing and one of the region's best pure sustained thin cracks. No move is probably any harder than honest .11+, and few are much easier. With so many thin locks and sharp stone, finger skin is a limiting factor. Some locks opened up and many became less sharp over 4-5 days of climbing on this.
Comparing ratings between areas and climbing styles doesn't seem as helpful as trying to be internally consistent at a given crag. This route is a significantly harder send than Winter Sustenance, Reservation Blues, or May Fly. But it is an endurance climb without anything harder than ~V4 and is finger size dependent.
take any suggested grade with a grain of salt and just enjoy the climb if it's 5.11 or 5.13.
The tips and fingers crack that is the next route left of JR Token - finish up the JR Extention to the anchors on the top of the mesa. You want a 70m to TR this (a 60 might work with some shenanigans and attentive belaying.)
Lots of small cams and mid-sized wires. Nothing bigger than a yellow alien unless it's for the 5.10 climbing near the top.
|By Max Tepfer|
From: Bend, OR
Feb 16, 2013
My .02: This line is killer. A stout line at a stout crag. Imagine moving into the pod on Alchemy for 60' interrupted by two rests and you start to get the idea. Feels harder than Full Clip, the only other route like it at TC. Full Clip probably has easier moves overall but a harder crux and less rest. Also, harder to me than Mayfly. Seems like 13- would be fair.