|3,706 page views|
This is the most popular sport climb on the Morning Glory Spire. Start just right of Syline 5.8. If you straighten out the line, it is 5.10c. If you zig and zag on the good holds, it is only 5.10a.
Follow a right facing corner, until you hit a slab. The slab is a little runout. Fun face climbing is had above. Head right to ease the grade. Finish on a small bulge right before the anchors.
BETA PHOTO: Fall Line. Unknown climber.
Scott reaching for a clip
Cecily partway up
Cecily further up
Cecily nearer the top
Lauren partway up
|By BJ Sbarra|
From: Carbondale, CO
Aug 13, 2013
This route needs a new anchor. Two days ago the right hand bolt was wiggling, I was able to tighten it down but it will probably come loose again. The left bolt isn't all that great and moves as well. Not sure what the policy is here on anchor replacement but will happily donate hardware next time I'm in the area.
|By Anonymous Coward|
Jul 19, 2005
Climbed Fall Line on 5/12/05 during a road trip from Colorado and couldn't help but notice that both bolts at the top move a little (not the hangers, but the bolts themselves). I suspect that the rock quality has something to do with it, and after careful inspection I didn't feel that it was currently unsafe, but given more time, these anchors will need to be replaced.
|By Dougald MacDonald|
Aug 29, 2006
The move to the third bolt is tricky and the fall would be very ugly. Leaders breaking into 5.10 sport climbs might want to choose another route.
Jul 6, 2009
anchor bolts are suspect, should be replaced.
|By Carl Rene Pelletier|
From: Jackson, Wyoming
Sep 29, 2009
In regards to getting to the 3rd bolt...a fall has the potential to tweek the climber....the moves just below the 3rd bolt are awkward....I moved straight up from the second bolt rather than going right and it seemed to be pretty easy.
May 16, 2010
rating: 5.10b 6a+ 19 VII- E2 5b
Anchors must have been replaced, because they're now huge 1/2 inchers with massive chains.
Jul 25, 2011
Left hand bolt on the anchor still moves. Right hand bolt on the anchors seemed to be ok.
From: Jackson, WY & Bozeman, MT
Jul 25, 2011
rating: 5.10c 6b 20 VII E2 5b PG13
Don't be a cheater...go straight up.
Concur that the anchor bolts are a bit suspect.
|By Finn the Human|
From: The Land of Ooo
Sep 19, 2011
rating: 5.10b/c 6b 20 VII E2 5b
As I was climbing straight up this I was thinking, "I'm making this a lot harder than it has to be..." I'm glad there are other MPers who agree!
As far as the chains are concerned, they seemed fine to me, although I didn't really give them a careful analysis.
Aug 5, 2013
rating: 5.10b 6a+ 19 VII- E2 5b PG13
the only thing amazing about this route was that someone could place so many bolts, and still leave the awkward crux (getting to 3rd bolt) basically unprotected with really ugly fall potential. really detracts from the otherwise good climbing.
From: Boise, ID
Sep 30, 2013
I agree that the 3rd bolt is the trickiest spot mentally. Beside that glaring flaw, the route is a lot of fun. The sequencing is cryptic in spots, but the face gives you what you need to finish.