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This route could use more traffic as it is a bit grubby (lichenous). If you are in the vicinity, it is a worthwhile challenge, the rock is excellent.
Right of Friday's Folly there is a long left facing corner (the route Pentaprance). The next big crack/chimney right of this is Falcon's Fracture. Scramble south from the base of the raps and locate and climb an easy (5.0) traverse right (south) ending at a tree about 50' up the Falcon's Fracture dihedral (starting near the base of Pentaprance). From this start the hard part of the route is not visible. Alternatively, go for the 5.9 Direct Start, which climbs the crack from the bottom. It was first led by Jim Erickson.
From the tree, the next 30' of the vertical to overhanging dihedral are the crux. The initial moves are quite tricky and I resorted to using the tree. About halfway through, there is an ancient bolt right next to a perfect 1" crack (why?). The final moves are well protected and airy stemming. Then you can get into an easy chimney and easily romp up 70' more to Slip-Slide Ledge.
Continue to the top via the SW Chimney, or descend that route.
Standard rack to 3.5"
More stemming on Falcon's Fracture.
|By Tony B|
From: Around Boulder, CO
Sep 16, 2002
rating: 5.9 5c 17 VI HVS 5a
I did this route on Saturday and was actually pretty impressed. It would be a darn fine route if cleaned, but the lichen on it makes for some bother. Without getting too far into the ethical debates of removing lichen... If this were to be cleaned, the proper way to do so in this situation would be with a short-bristled dust broom. The second could come up and more or less sweep the bad patches off. If this were done maybe twice, it would turn a 1-star pitch into a stellar climb.
This is a 1-star route as is, but if someone were to clean it WELL, it would easily become a 2* route. If it were clean and onthe bastille, it would be one of the best pitches there and people would rave about it as a 3* route.
This climb is mighty tough for 5.8. Particularly if started from the Jim Ericson "direct start"
|By George Bell|
From: Boulder, CO
Jan 31, 2003
Did the direct start today on the route - it is burly but well protected 5.9, definitely a fun and recommended variation to this route. We also managed to do the move past the tree without using the tree! The Third was crowded today with all the people squeezing in an ascent before the Falcon closure tomorrow!