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YDS: 5.9 French: 5c Ewbanks: 17 UIAA: VI ZA: 17 British: HVS 5a

Type:  Trad, 60'
Consensus:  YDS: 5.9 French: 5c Ewbanks: 17 UIAA: VI ZA: 17 British: HVS 5a [details]
FA: Daniel Garman and Alex Garhart
New Route: Yes
Page Views: 841
Submitted By: Alex Garhart on Mar 19, 2012

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BETA PHOTO: The direct route

RAIN AND WET ROCK The sandstone around Moab is fragile and is very easily damaged when it is wet. MORE INFO >>>


This fun route climbs flared splitter hands to a ledge where you have the option of continuing up the direct route which widens from 4" to a squeeze with a corner change (the FA took the direct route) or stepping left a couple feet and climbing a thin hands/hands splitter that starts ~7 feet above the ledge. It's a big reach to the hands splitter but a fun variation.


Left of "Finer 39'r" maybe 100 yards. The line is obvious from the approach trail.


BD #2-#6 for the direct line, more 2.5-3.0" for the variation. 2 bolt anchor.

Comments on Falcon Add Comment
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By delly84
From: Golden, Co
May 15, 2015

once you're at the top of the new (i'm assuming) trail, you're about 20ft right of Finer 39'r. there is sort of a trail left and down but once you get to the start of Finer 39'r (a roof crack, that's hard to miss, currently a plaque with Finer 39'r on it), you still have a bit of bushwhacking along the cliff around two walls to get to falcon. 100yards left of Finer 39'r is about right, but you can't really see it from the new trail.

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