Falcon Wall  5.11

1,057 page views Good page?

Type:  Trad, 16 pitches, 2400 feet, Grade IV Consensus:  5.11 [details] FA:  Max Kendall, Robert Warren New Route:  Yes Submitted By:  Max Kendall on Sep 12, 2008 You & This Route Your todo list: Your stars: Your rating: -none- [change] Your ticklist: [add new tick]

This picture shows the upper half of the route.

Add Photo  Add Comment    Printer View

2013 Raptor Closures MORE INFO >>> Serpent Point and the adjacent walls within one-half mile are closed to public use from March 15 through July 15. This includes the landscape portions above the walls extending 50 feet from the rim edge. This pertains to the following areas: North Rim areas - The Alpine Aretes, Porcelain Arete, and Painted Wall. These climbing routes are closed: Alpine Route, Porcelain Arete, On the Border, Broken Porcelain, Northern Arete, Beyer Route, The Dragon, The Serpent, Forrest-Walker, Stratosfear, Journey Through Mirkwood, and Southern Arete. South Rim areas - Dragon Point and Dragon Point Buttress. These climbing routes are closed: Pilgrimage, Crumb Blunder, Magic Dragon, Black Adder, Black Snake, Black Heathen, Black Dragon Rider, and Silent Rage. This information is a public crowdsourcing effort between the Access Fund, and Mountain Project. You should confirm closures, restrictions, and/or related dates. Keeping climbing areas open and conserving the climbing environment

Description 

This route was done in September 1990 as a Grade V. The top of the fourth pitch has a nice bivy ledge and there is a better bivy at the top of the twelve pitch. I have bivied at both spots and done the route in a day rim to rim. The park service did close this route because of the falcons, so check to see if it is open. I have always used the SOFB with raps to approach this We placed one bolt at the top of the fifth pitch for hauling the bag mostly.

Location 

The route is in between The Goldberg Arete and South Rim route right next to Bushmeister. Go down th SOFB past Crystal Vision, and South Arete. Third class up to the base near Bushmeister.

Protection 

Black Canyon rack: 2 sets of cams including wide gear, set of stoppers.