You & This Route
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This picture shows the upper half of the route.
This route was done in September 1988 as a Grade V. The top of the fourth pitch has a nice bivy ledge and there is a better bivy at the top of the twelfth pitch. I have bivied at both spots and done the route in a day rim to rim. The park service did close this route because of the falcons, so check to see if it is open. I have always used the SOFB with raps to approach this We placed one bolt at the top of the fifth pitch for hauling the bag mostly.
The route is right next to Bushmeister. Go down th SOFB past crystal vision and South Arete. Third class up to the base near Bushmeister.
Black Canyon rack: 2 sets of cams including wide gear, set of stoppers.