The "Cliff of the Fox" is a 70 meter high white open book formation. The two sections of cliff meet at a right angle forming the distinctive dihedral route, Diedre du Renard. Exposure is north and east.
Falaise du Renard has fairly sticky alabaster limestone with great atmosphere and views across the calanque to La Candelle.
Around 11 routes. At the left-hand wall, Falaise du Gauche, are 5 routes from 1 to 3 pitches at 4c to 6c+. The right side, Falaise du Droite, has another six routes from 2 to 4 pitches ranging from 5b to 6c.
Descend routes by rappel. Two fifty meter ropes handy for the descents. Also rumor of a trail on top of the plateau which leads to either the road to the port, or, to a trail coming back down to the port.
Located on the south side of the Morgiou calanque, where the sea narrows leading into the harbor and across from the Abri côtier climbing sector.
At the port of Morgiou , go to the end of Fisherman's Wharf. Take the trail leading out to sea following just above the sea shore. The trail is marked in black. Cut up the scree slope on a diagonal trail to the cliff. The cliff sits around 100m above the sea and 200m from the shore.
Allow about 20 minutes from the wharf to the cliff, give or take.
Arête des Raisins is a fun route, quickly climbed, with great views. Reasonably well bolted.Three pitches:*Pitch 1: climb up the steep but well featured face, a bit run out, clip a bolt and wander up to the right on slabby ramp features. 5.7, 20m.*Pitch 2: Easier ground on somewhat broken terrain leads right to a chimney/crack. Climb up the chimney. 5.5 for around 20m.*Pitch 3: Follow the chimney for around 20m then another 10m of easier terrain to the top of the formation. 5.7. Enjoy t...[more]Browse More Classics in International