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Cliffs of Insanity
Routes Sorted
L to R R to L Alpha
Are There Rocks Ahead  T 
As you wish T 
Back to the Beginning T 
Broken Brain T 
Brute Squad T 
cave route  T 
Dirty Spaniard, The T 
Fairy Dust T 
Farm Boy T 
Fezzik  T 
Fire Swamp, The T 
Funny Farm T 
Gilder T 
Hors D~oeuvres T 
I've Seen Worse T 
Inconceivable T 
Inigo Montoya T 
Iocane Powder T 
Iron Lady Tower, The T 
jew fro an a boner T 
Jumping the Shark T 
Lobotomy T 
M.C.'s Hammer T 
Man In Black T 
Mawwage T 
Nurse Rachet T 
Nutter T 
Offwidth Your Head T 
Pit of Despair T 
Prepare To Die T 
Prince Humperdinky T 
Princess Buttercup T 
Puzzle Factory T 
R.O.U.S T 
Six Fingerd Man T 
Storming the Castle T 
Str8 Jacket T 
To The Pain T 
True Love T 
Unamed 5.10+ (far left hands splitter) T 
Unknown (way right of wiggins finger to fist obtuse corner) T 
Unknown 10+ T 
Unknown 5.10+ (off fingers/thin hands splitter w/ pods) T 
Unknown OW (bombay flare left of wiggins routes) T 
Use Your Head T 
Vinciny T 
Wiggins I T 
Wiggins II T 
Unsorted Routes:

Fairy Dust 

YDS: 5.11- French: 6c Ewbanks: 22 UIAA: VIII+ ZA: 22 British: E3 5c

Type:  Trad, 1 pitch, 70'
Consensus:  YDS: 5.11- French: 6c Ewbanks: 22 UIAA: VIII+ ZA: 22 British: E3 5c [details]
FA: Kat Whipple
New Route: Yes
Page Views: 659
Submitted By: KWhipple on May 22, 2012

You & This Route  |  Other Opinions (4)
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RAIN AND WET ROCK The sandstone around Moab is fragile and is very easily damaged when it is wet. MORE INFO >>>


Start in a flared chimney to an obtuse OW corner, ending at 2 bolt anchor.


In between Vinciny and Jumping the Shark.


Limited protection first 20 feet, blue big bro to a thread through. OW from #5 C4, tapering down to #3 C4.

Photos of Fairy Dust Slideshow Add Photo
Rock Climbing Photo: Fairy Dust.
Fairy Dust.
Rock Climbing Photo: FA
Rock Climbing Photo: FA
Rock Climbing Photo: Drillin'
Rock Climbing Photo: the fun is right off the ground.
the fun is right off the ground.

Comments on Fairy Dust Add Comment
Show which comments
By Devin Fin
May 23, 2012

great route! clean right off the ground tuff squeez. but the tube is good an right wen you get a lil past it you wedge. i tried to make a 2nd blue tube fit on the (FMA) an almost shit the bead.. this is a must do if yer in to the big stuff.
By Kent Pease
From: Littleton, Colorado
Apr 1, 2015
rating: 5.10b 6a+ 19 VII- 19 E2 5b

Good clean fun and the thread adds a nice touch - too bad it's so short. Don't be deterred if you don't have big gear since if you slip you'll just go down and get stuck rather than falling out. Generously 5.10b: It's not technically difficult, although it may be physical if attacked.

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