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Fairbanks Environs: Mount Prindle

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Main Wall 

Fairbanks Environs: Mount Prindle 


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Elevation: 4,500'
Page Views: 4,280
Administrators: Jared LaVacque, Dommelhiemer, Kristine Hoffman
Submitted By: TobinPetty on Jul 3, 2007
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Looking west upcreek in SE Fork of American Creek@...

Description 

Two significant walls (300 ft & 900 ft) exist on the aspects of Mount Prindle's south facing headwall and surrounding slopes. The 900 ft Main Wall has several satellite buttresses, and there are many other lesser formations in the general area with plenty of established routes and potential projects. The area is remote, secluded and the chances that you run into another party is even more remote. The area is composed of granite whose quality ranges from good on the more established routes to substandard on the less familiar or first ascents. This is typical Alaska so be prepared for dramatic weather changes, wildlife, seclusion and the know how on working a compass. Management of this area falls under the auspices of White Mountains National Recreation Area and a National Research Area so there is some ambiguity as to access vis a vis camping. There is no ambiguity though concerning other recreational activities: no ATV use! If you do decide to camp (realistically this is not a one day climbing destination) climbers should minimize impact and keep a low profile by utilizing a knoll below the SE Buttress. Leave No Trace ethics should be the objective of all responsible climbers.


Getting There 

Mount Prindle Area Climbing Guide by Stan Justice, with contributions by the Alaska Alpine Club, contains the most accurate approach information for this area. Generally speaking, the drive is two hours from Fairbanks, a 4x4 vehicle with clearance is encouraged and the approach just to the base of the primary climbing areas is 3-4 hours. I highly recommend that you purchase this guide before attempting climbs in the area.


2 Total Routes


['4 Stars',1],['3 Stars',0],['2 Stars',1],['1 Star',0],['Bomb',0]
['<=5.6',0],['5.7',0],['5.8',1],['5.9',1],['5.10',0],['5.11',0],['5.12',0],['5.13',0],['>=5.14',0],['',0],['<=V1',0],['V2-3',0],['V4-5',0],['V6-7',0],['V8-9',0],['V10-11',0],['V12-13',0],['>=V14',0]

The Classics

Mountain Project's determination of some of the classic, most popular, highest rated routes for Fairbanks Environs: Mount Prindle:
Giradelli   5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a     Trad, Alpine, 6 pitches, 900'   Main Wall
Browse More Classics in Fairbanks Environs: Mount Prindle

Featured Route For Fairbanks Environs: Mount Prindle
Ghirardelli and Thin Mint photo/topo

Giradelli 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a  AK : Interior Alaska/Alaska Rang... : ... : Main Wall
The classic and "most popular" route at Mount Prindle, though I'd guess it sees <5 ascents per season. The line tackles the aesthetic western margin/skyline of the Main Wall (as seen from the approach), and has a number of variation finishes to the final pitches. Rock quality can vary wildly, and bomb-proof belay anchors are in short supply. There is no fixed gear or bolt anchors. If you have any doubts about your ability to navigate through loose/grainy rock, vegetation, gravel, ba...[more]   Browse More Classics in AK

Photos of Fairbanks Environs: Mount Prindle Slideshow Add Photo
Less than ideal conditions for climbing out on Mt Prindle
Less than ideal conditions for climbing out on Mt ...
The western flank of the Main Wall. The Gash begins above and to the left of the climber.
BETA PHOTO: The western flank of the Main Wall. The Gash begin...
900 ft Main Wall with its' satellite buttresses.
BETA PHOTO: 900 ft Main Wall with its' satellite buttresses.
Mount Prindle climbing area, after ascending Zephyr Creek drainage and traversing around to the north shoulder of Peak 4100 Ft. SE Fork and American Creek fork proper are in the foreground.
BETA PHOTO: Mount Prindle climbing area, after ascending Zephy...
300 Foot Wall located across from the NE Fork of American Creek and the 900 ft Main Wall.
BETA PHOTO: 300 Foot Wall located across from the NE Fork of A...
American Creek drainage with NE Fork crossing under Main Wall. Mount Prindle's summits with the primary climbing walls. View from shoulder (3000 ft elev.) of SE Fork of American Creek.
BETA PHOTO: American Creek drainage with NE Fork crossing unde...
Mount Prindle: Main Wall, SE Buttress, East Tower, 4000ft tors, and 300ft Wall.
BETA PHOTO: Mount Prindle: Main Wall, SE Buttress, East Tower,...
The base of Giradelli, starts up the prominent left facing dihedral to small roof feature.
BETA PHOTO: The base of Giradelli, starts up the prominent lef...
circa 1999, Dan McNamara finishing through the the black lichen that is part of the reason experiences  at Prindle are etched deep into your brain.
circa 1999, Dan McNamara finishing through the the...
The Ravens
The Ravens
aaaand here comes the rain (and hail, and thunder). At the base of the main wall
aaaand here comes the rain (and hail, and thunder)...
Mt Prindle climbing areas. Photo by Tobin Petty
BETA PHOTO: Mt Prindle climbing areas. Photo by Tobin Petty
Comments on Fairbanks Environs: Mount Prindle Add Comment
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By Karl Heine
From: Fairbanks, AK
Aug 20, 2012

Access: The trail (described in Stan Justice's guidebook) is definitely under-used as of 17 August 2012; however, do your best to stay on or close to it as it can be a HUGE time-saver. If you go too far north and descend into American Creek proper too far downstream, you will be fighting head-high alder bushes interspersed with thick, wet muskeg. Depending on rainfall, the upper portions of the N. Fork American Creek can be dry and make easier access for the final bit of the hike.

Rock condition: Very variable. Anything from lichen covered slab to completely loose flakes to surprisingly solid granite. Lichen was ever-present, even on Giradelli, "the most popular route at Prindle."

Pro: (for route Giradelli 5.9 900 ft) Shallow flaring cracks were prevalent and frustrating. Small nuts proved essential, but placements required triple checking to verify rock quality. One belay would have been immensely improved by a #2 Big Bro, but most placements were #1 C4 Cam or smaller. Pink and Red Tricams were placeable; hexes were the least useful.

By Richard Shore
Jul 5, 2013

Adventure climbing at it's finest, and way, way out there. Prindle can be done in-a-day (a HUGE day), and with 24 hour daylight in the summer why not? Adding all the weight of overnight gear onto the already demanding and strenuous approach is no joke, but would allow for doing more than just one or two routes. The 3 hour estimate is for fast and experienced parties familiar with the approach and hidden game-trails. With overnight gear, I'd expect 5 hours of seemingly endless slogging through springy tundra fields. The hike back out is only slightly easier than the approach, as you only have 2 big uphill sections to overcome versus 3 on the way in. In one day we saw bear, moose, caribou, Dall sheep, and the tracks of a large wolf and some smaller foxes. A 4WD high-clearance vehicle is not just recommended, but MANDATORY if you want to get anywhere close to the "trailhead." Otherwise, bring mountain bikes to get to Zephyr Creek parking and plan on getting wet on the numerous creek crossings. An extra pair of boots/socks might be nice.