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DescriptionThe Granite Tors are a collection of granite buttresses located above tree line on the ridges that circumvent the Martin and Rock Creek drainages within the Chena Hot Springs recreation area. Though there is an established loop trail that makes accessibility easier to the crags there is a remote nature to the climbing and care should be taken not to underestimate the approach and other associated risks in traveling Alaska's backcountry. Getting ThereFrom Fairbanks take the Steese Expressway to Chena Hot Springs road and take the road to milemarker 39 and a camping ground area (parking fee $5) that marks the start to access Granite Tors trailhead. Cross the road and follow the south bank of the Chena river to a fork in the trail. Leaving the river you can gain a ridge that ascends a series of increasingly elevated hills to above tree line. From here the trail continues up and loops through the various Tors climbing sites. Approach time: 2 hours. If you take the trail at the fork that continues to follow the Chena approach time is 2 1/2 to 3 hours. The ClassicsMountain Project's determination of some of the classic, most popular, highest rated routes for Fairbanks Environs: Granite Tors:
Easy Reach 5.7 Trad, TR, Alpine, 1 pitch, 30 feet Near Tors: Lizard's Eye
Daisy Crack 5.9 Trad, TR, Alpine, 1 pitch, 50 feet Near Tors: Rock 1
Parks Highway 5.9+ Trad, TR, Alpine, 1 pitch, 60 feet Near Tors: Lizard's Eye
Little Maniac/Dead End Crack 5.10 R Trad, TR, Alpine, 1 pitch, 70 feet Asgard Tor
The Fin 5.11 TR, Alpine, 1 pitch, 30 feet Near Tors: Lizard's Eye
Featured Route For Fairbanks Environs: Granite Tors
Little Maniac/Dead End Crack 5.10 R AK : Interior Alaska/Alaska Rang... : ... : Asgard Tor
This is THE crack of the Tors. The crack varies from hands to fingers before tapering out to 5.9 run-out at the top. A fixed pin at the top of the crack was pulled out with a gentle tug this summer. A couple bolts a the top of this climb would make the lead considerably safer.To top rope the climb, go around to the south side of the rock and follow a ramp to a grassy ledge. From the grass head towards the wide gap (chimney) that leads to the top. The moves are a bit committing here and I have to...[more] Browse More Classics in AK
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