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Fairbanks Environs: East Grapefruit Rocks

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Beggar's Canyon 
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Falcon Rock 
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Fairbanks Environs: East Grapefruit Rocks 


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Administrators: Jared LaVacque, Dommelhiemer, Kristine Hoffman
Submitted By: TobinPetty on Jun 9, 2007
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Falcon Rock (East Grapefruits) from the Elliot HWY...

Description 

The rock in this area is composed of a band of predominately solid Limestone. The climbs on these crags range from low angle to vertical or overhanging in some areas, while providing routes from 25-55 ft in length. There are TR, bolted and even some traditional routes that offer clean rock facing all aspects of the compass.


Getting There 

Travel North from Fairbanks on the Elliot Highway. You will pass Wickersham Dome trailhead at Milemarker 28 and at about Milemarker 38 you will pass Globe Creek with the crags visible on the low rising dome on the right side of the highway.Passing an evident road cut you will notice a blue parking sign on your right, which will buttonhook back and parallel to the highway. There is a small parking area with two primary trails that head up the hillside.


Climbing Season


48 Total Routes


['4 Stars',2],['3 Stars',8],['2 Stars',12],['1 Star',13],['Bomb',0]
['<=5.6',5],['5.7',6],['5.8',6],['5.9',12],['5.10',15],['5.11',4],['5.12',0],['5.13',0],['>=5.14',0],['',0],['<=V1',0],['V2-3',0],['V4-5',0],['V6-7',0],['V8-9',0],['V10-11',0],['V12-13',0],['>=V14',0]

The Classics

Mountain Project's determination of some of the classic, most popular, highest rated routes for Fairbanks Environs: East Grapefruit Rocks:
Head First   5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c     Sport, Alpine, 25'   Gorilla's Head
Sandbag   5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a     Sport, Alpine, 1 pitch, 60'   Twin Towers
Crackbaby   5.9+ 5c 17 VI 17 E1 5a     Trad, Sport, Alpine, 1 pitch, 50'   Crackland
Bring Your Dancing Shoes   5.10 6b 20 VII- 19 E2 5b     Sport, TR, Alpine, 1 pitch, 50'   Crackland
There's Got To Be A Way   5.10+ 6b+ 21 VII+ 20 E3 5b     Sport, TR, Alpine, 1 pitch, 45'   Twin Towers
Browse More Classics in Fairbanks Environs: East Grapefruit Rocks

Featured Route For Fairbanks Environs: East Grapefruit Rocks
Brian Mutschler rappelling steep face of Crackbaby 5.9+

Crackbaby 5.9+ 5c 17 VI 17 E1 5a  AK : Interior Alaska/Alaska Rang... : ... : Crackland
This route requires gear and sports 2 bolts at about 1/2 way height. This route is one of the best that I've climbed in the Interior. The bottom section is run out and the first of the bolts is approx. 20 feet out so be aware if you lead from the ground up. Excellent combination of crimpers and sideway pulls, face climbing and two small roofs make this climb consistently serious. I would say the distinct crux is the pair of roofs below the anchors. Make sure to tape up for pulling the roofs as t...[more]   Browse More Classics in AK

Photos of Fairbanks Environs: East Grapefruit Rocks Slideshow Add Photo
East Grapefruit Rocks from the highway.
East Grapefruit Rocks from the highway.
Comments on Fairbanks Environs: East Grapefruit Rocks Add Comment
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By TobinPetty
From: Boise, ID
Jun 9, 2007

The Fairbanks Area Climbing Guide produced by Alaska Alpine Club, combined with previous editions of Fairbanks area climbing guides by Stan Justice, are the best sources for up to date and comprehensive climbing in Fairbanks environs. The guide books can be purchased at Beaver Sports in Fairbanks, AK.

By Steve Marr
From: Colorado Springs, CO
Aug 19, 2007

Of the two trails that lead out of parking lot, the South Trail is the most conspicuous of the two. The North Trail is fainter, and located about 100 feet back along the road (towards the highway). Both trails gain elevation quickly but are fairly easy. The south trail is a little more developed than the north. Heading up the south trail, you'll pass by the southern end of Lowest Rock after a few minutes, followed by Gorilla Rock. Continue up the path straight to the Twin Towers. From the Twin Towers, a faint trail heads north to Falcon Rock.

By Chuck
From: Columbus, GA
Jun 23, 2008

The North Trail is marked with blue disks nailed to trees. The south trail is marked by red diskes. The trail between Falcon rock and Twin Towers is marked by white. Thanks to recent efforts to improve the trails, and keep climbers on them.

By colin tuck
From: Fairbanks
Apr 18, 2013

Why are all the climbs at Grapefruit listed as 'alpine'? This is roadside cragging.

By Terramariner
From: Cordova/Fairbanks, AK
Apr 4, 2014

^this

More importantly though, adding routes that directly quote a guide book is a blatant infringement of copyright. MP is supposed to supplement the guidebook and not replace it. If you want to add a route, go climb it and then add it using your own words.

Guidebooks inherently have inaccuracies such as bolt count, route length, anchor info, etc so you're not doing any favors by repeating misinformation when you could have firsthand knowledge that may be more accurate. Even lamer is adding routes with little or no description...

Some examples:
mountainproject.com/v/break-in-tradition/106838931
mountainproject.com/v/the-blade/108370083

See below thread for a discussion on the topic:
mountainproject.com/v/adding-routes-to-areas-on-mtnprjct-usi>>>