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 ADVANCED
Window Rock - East
Routes Sorted
L to R R to L Alpha
Destroy all Planets T,S 
Drunken Cowboy T 
Expect No Mercy T 
Failure to Launch T 
Good Times T 
Juniper Jam T 
Masochist Crack T 
One Step Beyond TR 
Pure Pleasure T 

Failure to Launch 

YDS: 5.9 French: 5c Ewbanks: 17 UIAA: VI ZA: 17 British: HVS 5a

   
Type:  Trad, 85'
Consensus:  YDS: 5.9 French: 5c Ewbanks: 17 UIAA: VI ZA: 17 British: HVS 5a [details]
FA: 
Page Views: 667
Submitted By: Texaswall on Jun 26, 2008

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Description 

On the east side of Window Rock is this obvious line, often climbed, but not listed in the latest Bingham guide. It shares the start (and crux) with Pocket Rocket, stays in the flaring crack until it ends, crosses directly over the horizontal gash/crack about halfway up the route utilizing face holds until a second finger-sized crack is reached. The first 3-4 moves (poor feet) are 5.9, the rest is 5.7-ish. Going from one crack to the other may provide a modest runout if protection cannot be found in the horizontal.

NOTE: If a name is in common use for this climb, let's make that change here.


Location 

This is between the alcove containing Expect No Mercy and the parallel cracks of Good Times and Pure Pleasure on the east side of Window Rock. Descend by walking north along the spacious ledge to rap anchors.


Protection 

A spot is encouraged for the start, med. - 3" gear at bottom, small - med. gear at top. Trad anchors.



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By Paddy McIlvoy
From: Hailey, ID
May 22, 2009

I've always thought of this as the "logical" Pocket Rocket. I don't know why Bingham has "Rocket" going off into the wierd unknown, but this is the obvious continuation to the pocket start. Anyway, I just call it "Pocket Rocket". One of my favorites. I work with Dave B. I'll ask him why he has the route listed the way he does.

By dave bingham
Oct 13, 2011

Beats me. It makes sense to me to just go straight up on "pocket.." There do seem to be a lot of named routes here that are pretty indistinct.I'll try and clear things up in the 2012 guide.

By OldManRiver
From: Cottonwood Heights, UT
Sep 9, 2013

I recommend bringing a large cam (#4/5 C4 or comparable) to protect the traverse. And slings to minimize drag with the zig-zag the route requires.