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Cannon Ice Climbs
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Black Dike 
Fafnir 
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Fafnir 

WI5+

   
Type:  Ice, 3 pitches, 450', Grade IV
Original: WI5+ [details]
FA: John Bouchard, Steve Zajchowski, Roger Martin
Season: Winter
Page Views: 4,599
Submitted By: andrew kulmatiski on Sep 19, 2007

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Rusty Reno leading the crux

Description 

Too many people on the Black Dike? Look to the right - wow that looks crazy, and it is. Conditions really vary on this route, but it often demonstrates some wild blocky climbing through ice ceilings. Strong upgulley winds can form horizontal ice roofs that have to be negotiated.
P1. Up the Black Dike gulley
P2. Step right, climb through bulges to a snow ledge.
P3. Continue through blocky climbing on sometimes thin ice (crux) then through mixed climbing up a small gulley to top.

Location 

The route shares a start with the Black Dike, in the Black Dike coloir. After the first pitch move right.

Protection 

Bring some stubbies. Large nuts or med cam for exit moves could be used.


Photos of Fafnir Slideshow Add Photo
Rock Climbing Photo: Climbing Fafnir in the early '90s. The Black Dike ...
Climbing Fafnir in the early '90s. The Black Dike ...
Rock Climbing Photo: Andy Sterns on the crux pitch.
Andy Sterns on the crux pitch.
Rock Climbing Photo: Zeb Engberg leading the third pitch in thin condit...
Zeb Engberg leading the third pitch in thin condit...
Rock Climbing Photo: 2nd pitch.
2nd pitch.
Rock Climbing Photo: The black dike area. Two parties are visible on th...
BETA PHOTO: The black dike area. Two parties are visible on th...
Rock Climbing Photo: Andy Sterns on the crux pitch.
Andy Sterns on the crux pitch.

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