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 ADVANCED
Cannon Ice Climbs
Select Route:
Black Dike 
Fafnir 
Omega 

Fafnir 

WI5+

   
Type:  Ice, 3 pitches, 450', Grade IV
Consensus: WI5+ [details]
FA: John Bouchard, Steve Zajchowski, Roger Martin
Season: Winter
Page Views: 3,697
Submitted By: andrew kulmatiski on Sep 19, 2007

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Rusty Reno leading the crux

Description 

Too many people on the Black Dike? Look to the right - wow that looks crazy, and it is. Conditions really vary on this route, but it often demonstrates some wild blocky climbing through ice ceilings. Strong upgulley winds can form horizontal ice roofs that have to be negotiated.
P1. Up the Black Dike gulley
P2. Step right, climb through bulges to a snow ledge.
P3. Continue through blocky climbing on sometimes thin ice (crux) then through mixed climbing up a small gulley to top.

Location 

The route shares a start with the Black Dike, in the Black Dike coloir. After the first pitch move right.

Protection 

Bring some stubbies. Large nuts or med cam for exit moves could be used.


Photos of Fafnir Slideshow Add Photo
Climbing Fafnir in the early '90s. The Black Dike was busy and the ice was good, so we went for it.
Climbing Fafnir in the early '90s. The Black Dike ...
Andy Sterns on the crux pitch.
Andy Sterns on the crux pitch.
Zeb Engberg leading the third pitch in thin conditions. We wound up climbing the left pillar.
Zeb Engberg leading the third pitch in thin condit...
2nd pitch.
2nd pitch.
The black dike area. Two parties are visible on the dike-- Fafnir trends up and to the right.
BETA PHOTO: The black dike area. Two parties are visible on th...
Andy Sterns on the crux pitch.
Andy Sterns on the crux pitch.

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