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West Ridge - part E - top to Xanadu
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Whiplash 

Fade To Black 

YDS: 5.10a French: 6a Ewbanks: 18 UIAA: VI+ British: E1 5a PG13

   
Type:  Trad, 1 pitch, 180'
Consensus:  YDS: 5.10a French: 6a Ewbanks: 18 UIAA: VI+ British: E1 5a [details]
FA: Variation on existing routes
Season: Faces South/Southeast
Page Views: 130
Submitted By: Tony B on Mar 4, 2012
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Climbing reopened after flood MORE INFO >>>

Description 

This is not a new route at all, but rather, a new combination on existing territory. The last several years the mid-height corner of 'Blackout' has been coated with bird poo and has been unappealing. One can instead start up as for Fading Light and climb to about mid height of the corner. There, a system of flakes starts on the compact arete between the two and rises up and right toward the shared roof. This can be protected to the left as for Fading Light for a few moves, then on its own before pulling a crux, around the arete and to the right just above the pigeon poo. Continue hard right up towards the right-most end of the roof and to a crack system out to the right of either corner, riding this up and eventually left to a steady pine tree, and then left under that and to the top.


Location 

Start on 'Fading Light', transitions onto 'Blackout' after some independent arete climbing and a crux, and then climbs so-so rock to the top.


Protection 

This has very good gear until heading onto the arete then good but only occasional gear until past the roof. Bring a full set of nuts, a full set of cams, and lots of slings.



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