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 ADVANCED
The Main Amphitheater
Routes Sorted
L to R R to L Alpha
Accidental Tourist, The T 
Alligator Sex Farm T,S 
Black and Tan T 
Broken Chain T 
Could Be Worse T 
Counter Curse T 
Dark and Stormy T 
Dark Arts T 
Darkest Hour T 
Death and Taxes T 
Fade To Black T 
False Prophet T 
Fierce Invalids T 
Gemini Dragonfire T 
Lakshmi Singh T 
Logic Bomb T,S 
Lord Humongous T 
Pressure Drop T,S 
Pyrokinesis T 
Rough Around the Edges T 
Speaking In Tongues T 
Sphere of Influence T 
There Will Be Blood T 
Walking Far From Home T 

Fade To Black 

YDS: 5.12 French: 7b+ Ewbanks: 27 UIAA: VIII+ ZA: 26 British: E6 6b

   
Type:  Trad, 1 pitch, 100'
Consensus:  YDS: 5.12 French: 7b+ Ewbanks: 27 UIAA: VIII+ ZA: 26 British: E6 6b [details]
FA: JJ Schlick, James Q Martin
Season: Spring, Summer, Fall
Page Views: 1,402
Submitted By: Josh Janes on Jun 14, 2009

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JJ Schlick on the FA.

Description 

Fade To Black is one of the steepest routes in the amphitheater! Begin just right of the terrace where Dark Arts starts and scramble up to a low ledge. Here, a blue TCU or green Alien in a horizontal doesn't do much for pro, but will keep the next few wire placements from zippering. Slot a key, blind #5 BD overhead (currently fixed) and work past a funky low move and then into low angled, sporty left facing dihedral. Move up into a cruxy thin crack dihedral passing a solution pocket on left. Rest at a block and then move out the steep dihedral past four bolts via jams and long moves between jugs to a final crux reach to a fingerlock. Bouldery, pumpy, and classic!

Protection 

Thin pro (to 1/2"), four bolts up high. A green Alien or blue TCU in a horizontal - the first piece - helps prevent wires from zippering up higher. After this is a key #5 BD stopper that is placed blindly to protect the first weird move - currently this wire is fixed.


Photos of Fade To Black Slideshow Add Photo
Mike Sokoloff getting into the crux on a very impressive second try redpoint!
Mike Sokoloff getting into the crux on a very impr...
Regrouping at the block rest.
Regrouping at the block rest.
On the way down...
On the way down...
During the FA
During the FA
Mike S, shaking out mid crux!
Mike S, shaking out mid crux!

Comments on Fade To Black Add Comment
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By JJ Schlick
Administrator
From: Flagstaff, AZ
Aug 6, 2014

As a younger climber always on the lookout for beautiful new lines, my day dreams were once haunted with visions of perfect crack lines winding their way skyward, only to end into sweeping headwalls that were riddled with perfect jugs and deep pockets. These imaginary lines were a harmonious union between two styles of climbing that I loved equally. The down and dirty heart kicking nature of true, hard gear climbing, and the steep, long moves between great holds that we all consider classic sport climbing.

Fade To Black and a few others at the Waterfall are about as close as I ever came to realizing these visions.

While it's not a pitch for everyone, I do love this line, and I guarantee it will test you every which way.