Start on a large rock. Make a committing move across a chasm onto the slick slab start. Clip a couple of bolts before reaching a large triangle hold. Then embark on short but intense crux section. An easy (but dirty) section will bring you to the anchors.
20ft left of Bar Fly and just left of a dihedral.
5 bolts to anchor.
|By Brian S|
Dec 18, 2013
The name is a reference to Charles Bukowski and my desire to serve the climbing community.
From: santa rosa, cali
Dec 26, 2013
i did the left route that is now the lead climb "factotum". i did fa on tr but i never went back to finish it since at that time they were dealing with the access issues that arose at the quarry. good job to the guys that did it - factotum it is!
the other routes i did have the names wrong or incomplete and they are;
"bar fight" is the route on the right with the short boulder crux at the start and then the 5.5 ending. the route to its left up the corner is "bar fly" and then factotum would be to its left.
i also thought there could be at least another new route or two further to the left!?
and i also wanted to do "wolf ridge" but never got around to it but it sounds like someone did - thats so cool i cant wait to do it! theres potential for probably a few more new ones too. its not really a local area for me being about a 2hr drive so im glad that the actual locals are starting to enjoy it finally :)
|By Brian S|
Feb 27, 2014
Thanks for info, cleaning, and anchor bolts.