Fact of a Door Frame
Your todo list:
Your rating: -none-
Your ticklist: [add new tick]
Your opinion of this PAGE: [0 people like this page.]
This is another nice little route on the West face of The Box. It is slightly better than Aunt Jennifer's Tigers
. Find this just right of Hand Crack
, 5.9 and Aunt Jennifer's Tigers
, 5.10d. This a pretty, West-facing wall with brilliant green lichens has 3 of the 5 routes of the West face. It has certainly a bit of a hump for an approach, perhaps 45 minutes, but decent variety in the area can make it worth it. This perhaps-slightly more than vertical route is identified by 3 bolts going straight up to a 2-bolt anchor. On our climb, as of 4/11/3, the 4th bolt described by Rossiter seemed to be missing. Maybe, we couldn't count. Rossiter had already noted the 2 pins were missing previously. In its current state, it is a long way to the first bolt. It would be quite exciting clipping the 2nd bolt. This gets 2 stars, by consensus of 2.
The pins below the 1st bolt seem to be gone. Consider a stick clip for the 1st bolt (perhaps 15 feet up), it is a long ways up and blowing the clip might just ruin your day. Muscle up the overhanging start by walking your feet up the red boulder under the overhang. Get a good spot. Reach up left to a big pebble, then move your right hand up to the big, rough pinch, then move your left hand up to the squared-off-ish edge. Scrunch up and get your feet onto the main wall. Get in balance. Reach up for the 1st clip. Now sidepull/layback a longish edge as you work your feet up on very grippy footholds. Get stable off the edge and make the 2nd clip. I don't recommend blowing this 2nd clip either. From the top of the sidepull/layback edge, move up and right. The climbing becomes less difficult but more balancy. Use the arete and the crack in the dihedral as you work your feet up. Find a good pinch just below the anchor. Clip & rap.
Rap the route from the 2-bolt anchor which is shared with Aunt Jennifer's Tigers
. The right bolt could use a link or something better than the thin, split ring and hollow aluminum rap ring. The left bolt also uses a thin, split ring.
3 QD, plus something for the anchors.
By Tony B
From: Around Boulder, CO
May 26, 2007
rating: 5.11c 6c+ 24 VIII- 24 E4 6a
You can put bomber small stoppers in before the first bolt. The climb gets 1 star from me. Good movement, but unpleasantly sharp on the tips.
By Fred Knapp
Sep 28, 2007
Yes, I'm a fan of Adrienne Rich. I only remember placing a single knifeblade about mid-route. These were the days of hand-drilling, so we looked for any method to spare the drill.