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Diamond Head
Routes Sorted
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Cameron's Corner 
Climber in the Buff 
Diamond In The Rough 
Facets 
Fistful of Diamonds 
Flaw, The 
Kill All Bad Brown Dogs 
Let It Rock 
Let it Roll 
Let It Slide 
She Blew Me 
Shibumi 
Uncle Chip 
V2 

Facets 

YDS: 5.10c French: 6b Ewbanks: 20 UIAA: VII British: E2 5b

   
Type:  Trad
Consensus:  YDS: 5.10b/c French: 6b Ewbanks: 20 UIAA: VII British: E2 5b [details]
FA: Chip Ruckgaber and Brad Bond
New Route: Yes
Page Views: 142
Submitted By: Brad Bond on Feb 12, 2002
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BETA PHOTO: The wide inset in this photo is the route 'Facets'...
Climbing reopened after flood MORE INFO >>>

Description 

About 40 or 50 feet left of "Kill all bad brown dogs" is a deep, symmetric corner.

Make a hard move up and over a bulge into the corner to a no-hands rest. Place a red camalot and continue up past tricky stem moves and RP placements until a thank-god rail can be reached out left. Continue up to easy ground and rap or scramble up and left, then down.


Protection 

A good selection of small wires and brass nuts; cams (1 ea.) up to a #3 friend.



Comments on Facets Add Comment
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By Brad Bond
May 15, 2002

We did this thing again and Eric found an easier way to do the crux. Instead of trying to stem out left, stem strait up the box and look for a finger lock up and right. Done this way the crux is entering the dihederal -- 10 or maybe 10+. Still really fun!

By Tony B
From: Around Boulder, CO
May 27, 2002
rating: 5.10 6b 20 VII- E2 5b

I did this one while wandering around up at Diamond head, prior to figuring out what I was getting on. This, I did the route without beta or bias as to its grade.

I felt like the route was 10b/c, based on a comparison to other stemming routes. Ariel Book P1 (10d) is much harder, and no better protected. The Green-Spur dihedral section (9+) and Over The Hill P1 (10a)& P2 (10b) are also easier.

If I'd not found the key time to step to the right into the sidepull, I'd have had to find a harder sequence, I am sure. As for protection, it seems adequate enough, but you need to be sure of the pieces you get, which will include some quite small pcs (#00 HB anchor, for example). The route would be what I refer to as "S-" This means the route CAN be adequately protected. The question is, are you solid enough on the climb to play around with it and get it right?

This route may be height dependant, particulrly as per leg length and/or flexibility. The stemming is wide.