Face Value 5.9-
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| Type: | Sport, 1 pitch, 80 feet |
| Consensus: | 5.8+ [details] |
| FA: | Kevin Lindorff, Bob D'Antonio, Frank Hill, 1984 |
| Submitted By: | David Danforth on Aug 14, 2004 |
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Face value is the route just to the right of th le...
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Description Face Value starts just left of Cheryl's Peril (5.9) and just right of the big ledge where South Face Direct (5.10c) starts. The long, well-protected line follows up past 8 bolts on funky holds to a 2 bolt anchor rested in a roomy ledge about 80 feet up. The rap can be done with a single 60m rope with little room to spare. Mark the middle of your rope and tie the ends!! Excellent climbing and cool view from the top. It is definitely worth your time to climb Face Value.
Protection 8 draws for bolts and extra for 2-bolt anchor.
BETA PHOTO: Closing in on the anchors.
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By Anonymous Coward Aug 18, 2004
| I did. Just to start a long ridiculous thread on whether to bolt or not. I promise that I will never do it again, if no response is given to this post. |
By Anonymous Coward Aug 23, 2004
| It is amazing that Bob D'Antonio would have anything to say about adding bolts to this route with his long list of bolted cracks, chossheaps and generally overated bolted pieces of shit to his credit.Perhaps it would be time better spend scrutinizing his actions carefully in the name of preserving climbing for future generations of climbers who actually can make a move on a piece of gear instead of needing to be right next to a bolt every second. |
By Anonymous Coward Sep 2, 2004
| If Bob had not said anything, everyone would have probably assumed it was he who added the bolts. I'm also a little disgusted at this new direction of "making it safe for everyone" that people like Bob are taking. It's good to hear that someone else, seemingly unrelated to this trend, is admitting guilt. 'Fess up, the rest of you; I for one, would really like to see new climbs be challenging and not just technically. We are already looking back and saying "what the hell have we done"? Here is a little tip that many "just bolt it" types don't want to hear: If adequate removable protection is available, utilize it! Pretty far out hu? |
By Scott Hudson Oct 14, 2005
| Now back to Face Value. Climbed this about a month ago and thought it was a very good climb. I usually enjoy, but don't find easy bolted routes very memorable, but the "funky" holds (many large quartz crystals) made this one quite memorable. I'm sure it would have been more so if it only had the 2 original bolts though. Still, my partner and I both thought that it was exceptionally fun on a great piece of rock. |
By jeff bryan From: Cortez, co Sep 9, 2008
| Fun route, easy not over bolted like table rock or CCC. more bolts then your average 11 mile route but the dome needs it. its crowded here so let all enjoy this great canyon |
By Shawn Mitchell From: Broomfield Aug 8, 2009 rating: 5.8+
| Very fun bolted face. Steep, well protected, but not sewn up. A couple runouts on moderate ground hold the attention. Well worth doing and a great climb to set a toprope for strong beginners. A 60m gets down nicely, but make sure it's the middle! |
By Stich From: Colorado Springs, Colorado Aug 13, 2011
| Bring med to large cams to make an anchor for your belayer in the crack on the ledge. Very nice route and not overbolted at all. |
By Steven Reneau Aug 6, 2012
| Note that Stewart Green's book (2010, 2nd Ed., p. 337) has wrong location for Face Value. If you use his photo as a guide, you end up on Mike Johnson Route (5.10b). |
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