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 ADVANCED
Left Flank
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Aquaduck Pocket S 
Brother Stair S 
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Face Up To That Crack T,S 
Fast Food Christians S 
Henry S 
Infectious S 
Maypop S 
Mercy the Huff S 
Mr. Bungle S 
Relaxed Atmoshere S 
Sex Farm S 
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Table of Colors S 
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Third World Lover S 
To Defy The Laws Of Tradition S 
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Face Up To That Crack 

YDS: 5.8- French: 5b Ewbanks: 16 UIAA: VI- ZA: 14 British: VS 4c

   
Type:  Trad, Sport, 1 pitch, 70'
Consensus:  YDS: 5.8- French: 5b Ewbanks: 16 UIAA: VI- ZA: 14 British: VS 4c [details]
FA: K. Pogue, E. Weinman Pogue
Page Views: 2,341
Submitted By: Mike on Sep 16, 2006

You & This Route  |  Other Opinions (109)
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Face Up To That Crack

Description 

Follow the bolt line through a short, nice handcrack then more bolts to chains.

Location 

Located on Left Flank. Route goes up the center of the slabby face just right of Fast Food Christians.

Protection 

Mostly bolted with a #1 camalot for the crack.


Photos of Face Up To That Crack Slideshow Add Photo
Face Up To That Crack (And beware of hornets' nests)
BETA PHOTO: Face Up To That Crack (And beware of hornets' nest...
Jim TRing this fun route
Jim TRing this fun route
Barry Rose on the classic Face Up to That Crack
Barry Rose on the classic Face Up to That Crack
Face up to that Crack November 2010
Face up to that Crack November 2010
Face Up To That Crack
Face Up To That Crack
My first or one of my first rock climbs in July 2007!!
My first or one of my first rock climbs in July 20...
Face Up To That Crack
Face Up To That Crack

Comments on Face Up To That Crack Add Comment
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Comments displayed oldest to newestSkip Ahead to the Most Recent Dated Jun 17, 2014
By Jim Matt
From: Indianapolis, IN
Mar 18, 2007
rating: 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c

Super fun route! I thought the face climbing to the crack was slightly harder...maybe 5.8-5.8+, but there are only 2 really thin moves to gain the crack. Bring a #2 Camalot to plug in the crack, otherwise the route is well bolted.
By James M Schroeder
From: Sauk County, WI
Apr 7, 2007
rating: 5.8- 5b 16 VI- 14 VS 4c

Take Camalots #1 and #2 - you'll feel exceptionally well protected...
By Justin Dansby
From: GA
Oct 24, 2007
rating: 5.8- 5b 16 VI- 14 VS 4c

I agree the opening feet are a little harder than 5.8-, but the rest of the route is easier. I used a #2 camalot in the top of the crack, just to protect myself if I blew the next clip. None the less a great warm up for the other routes close by.
By Keegan Dimmick
From: Winchester, VA
Apr 21, 2008
rating: 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c

Felt a little tougher than 5.8-, that's just me though. I didn't use and pro for the runout section, it was the easiest part for me. Be careful what you grab when you reach the rest above the crack, there is a lot of loose rock.
By ziggy
Jan 18, 2010

Not any harder than 5.8, it's just that it's neighbor Mr. Bungle is soft for the grade. Since it seems to me that most sport climbers have no clue how to hand jam, I would recommend bringing a cam for the crux.
By saxfiend
Administrator
From: Decatur, GA
May 16, 2010
rating: 5.9- 5c 17 VI 16 HVS 4c

Nice climb; for supposed 5.8-, it sure got my attention. I didn't feel any need for placing pro in the crack, but it's there if you need it.
By George Heib
Sep 30, 2010
rating: 5.8- 5b 16 VI- 14 VS 4c

A #1 low and #2 high really make this route feel safe, but isn't necessary. The crux is below the crack and it can seem a bit more difficult if you aren't used to slab climbing. Felt like good ole NC slab.
By Kurt Swanson
From: Philadelphia, PA
Mar 14, 2012
rating: 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c

Putting a cam in here was more of a chore than anything, the climbing at the crack is easy even if you don't want to hand jam.
By Drake Pregnall
From: Morehead, KY
Mar 19, 2012
rating: 5.8- 5b 16 VI- 14 VS 4c

I agree with most people that it's totally easy to sew up the crack with a 1 and 2 inch cam even if it's not necessary to. I highly recommend this climb to anyone looking to get into trad leading. The climbing is all fairly easy, especially the hand jams in the crack, and if you do freak out placing gear in the crack, you have bolts below and above.
By kevin614d
Mar 28, 2014

A #2 or #3 for the crack works well. There is a bolt right before the crack, and it is about 10 feet. So you only need one piece to avoid what could be a bigger fall.

Classic beginner though, and it has a great view.
By Dreez
Jun 17, 2014

great route well rated.