Face to Face
|2,645 page views|
|Type: ||Trad, 3 pitches, 270 feet|
|Consensus: ||5.10b [details]|
|FA: ||P1: A. Long, R. Kligfield, J. Kingston, A. Rubin 1977 P2,3: B. Richardson and I. Rezucha 1975|
|Submitted By: ||Ross Fadely on Jan 10, 2008|
A great and underrated route. The last pitch will not disappoint.
P1- Climb up an easy, unprotected face. Up slightly right to the back left to a clean face and nice climbing. Make a belay at the GT.
P2- Walk left 40 feet to the right side of the block. Climb up this and diagonal right across the face. Up to the left-facing corner at the roof. Hand traverse right to the face and go up for a belay below a small V-notch.
P3- A bit of everything. Climb through the notch immediately into the nice, strenuous crack. After a short stance, climb up to a thin fingertip horizontal. From here, make the wild traverse out along the crack to the edge of an overhang. Crank through these to the trees. What a pitch!
40 feet right of Three Vultures at a concave face. Begin at the left side, just left of a very shallow right-facing, right-arching corner. If you have doubles you can rap No Glow, which is climber's right; otherwise, walk further to climber's right and down a notch to a bolted rap line over The Last Will Be First.
Standard rack. Micronuts/cams and one 4" unit may be helpful but not necessary.
Oct 15, 2010
AMAZING LAST 2 PITCHES. Do not miss this climb. The first 30 feet are unprotected easy climbing, but then... oh baby... you get a awesome feet cutin' roof traverse, follow that up with a crack crux directly above an overhang (think CCK but with more exposure), and then a fantastic finale through a wild traverse and overhanging roof.
|By Ivan Rezucha|
From: Boulder, CO
Oct 16, 2010
The last bit of the last pitch, 5.9 angling left to the top, was first done by John Stannard as as hard finishing variation to Three Vultures.
From: Wakefield, RI
Nov 8, 2011
What does the crux crack on the third pitch look like? I ended up going through this notch on a finger sized layback crack/flake. Didnt exactly feel like 10b at the gunks. Was I off route? Anyone have pics?
From: Stone Ridge, NY
Apr 10, 2012
Crux on p. 3 is right off the belay, a butt scum in a small right facing corner with fingers in a thin crack. This leads up through easier terrain, then either (1) break left on a pencil thin finger traverse and bust through the roofs or go 15 degrees right and break through the roofs there. Both options seem hard for 5.10