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The Dark Side
Routes Sorted
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27 Tons S 
Animatronic S 
Asym S 
Audition, The S 
Beginner's Outing S 
Black 'N Dicey S 
Black Awareness S 
Black Dihedral T 
Blank Frank S 
Bonnie S 
Call From Overseas S 
Clyde S 
Corner Pockets S 
Counter Balance S 
Crack Happens S 
Crack's On Top, The S 
Crown of Thorns aka Box Lunch aka Lou Raven's Rest S 
Dark Side Roofs S 
Eagle has Landed, The S 
Eat, Drink, and Beat Larry S 
Edge Of Fright S 
El Guapo S 
Enchanted Porkfist S 
Face The Music S 
Fat Like Butta S 
Fight or Flight T 
Fragile S 
Go East, Old Man S 
Hangers Regained S 
I Scare Myself T,S 
Kashmere S 
Kinesthesia S 
Levels of the Game S 
Line of Strength S 
Lumina S 
Mannequin S 
Missing Hangers S 
Muted by Reality S 
Plum, The S 
Porkus Procurement S 
Puddle Of Holes S 
Punjabi S 
Redlined S 
Rip It S 
Route Fluffer S 
Shelf Road Virgin S 
Stink Finger S 
Stuck in the Middle With You S 
Suspender Man S 
Teenage Wristband S 
Thank Heaven for Little Girls S 
Trolling For Holds S 
Two Hearts S 
U Pump It S 
Unknown S 
Viaggro S 
Void Lloyd S 
Way We Were, The T 
Welcoming, The S 
Whisper To A Scream S 

Face The Music 

YDS: 5.11c French: 6c+ Ewbanks: 24 UIAA: VIII- ZA: 24 British: E4 6a

   
Type:  Sport, 1 pitch, 70'
Consensus:  YDS: 5.11b/c French: 6c+ Ewbanks: 23 UIAA: VIII- ZA: 24 British: E4 6a [details]
FA: Stanley & Striech
Page Views: 455
Submitted By: david goldstein on Sep 21, 2006

You & This Route  |  Other Opinions (8)
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BETA PHOTO: Moving over to the left face.

Description 

A worthwhile change of pace. The rating is more accurate if you drop a number from the guidebook grade -- all three members of our party flashed this after two of us flailed on ?Lou Raven's Rest? (10c/d). The pitch starts in a desert tower like wide crack at the bottom of a very large, hanging right-facing corner. Up the crack, onto the right face of the corner for a couple of clips. Then, reach over to the left face of the corner, clipping bolts and stemming until the location of the bolts force you to commit to the left face entirely. The airy position here is invigorating, but the holds are pretty good. Continue up the left face to anchors at its top.

Maybe, if one committed to the left face as early as possible, it might feel like 5.11, but it would sure be contrived.


Location 

On the far left/east of The Dark Side, one route left of From a Whisper to a Scream.


Protection 

8 bolts.



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By Doug Lintz
From: Kearney, NE
Sep 25, 2007

The first 10 feet ascend very loose and crumbly rock. Be sure to test your foothold before weighting it completely. The upper dihedral is exposed and very fun.

By kjdetlor
From: Colorado Springs, CO
Sep 10, 2008

The 5.11 grade is most definitely wrong, flashed this one the other day, then went and took many whips on redlined (5.11b). Really fun route though, must do if a solid 5.10 climber.

By Christian Mason
From: Arvada, CO
Sep 30, 2010

Agree with the comment above. This climb is a LOT of fun, but it's not anywhere near 11c.