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San Ysidro
Routes Sorted
L to R R to L Alpha
Applied Magnetics T,TR 
Chavez/Mosher T 
Daddy's Girl S 
Enigmatic Voyage TR 
Face Lift T 
Fine Line T 
Gnome Fingers T 
Great Race S,TR 
Haunted by Waters S 
Heckling, The T,TR 
Many Happy Returns T,TR 
Orangahang T,TR 
Peels of Laughter T 
Puny Prow T,TR 
Return On Investment T 
Rick's Route T 
Rockocco T 
Scrub Job T 
Vanishing Flakes T,TR 
Weeny Roofs, The T 
Young William T 

Face Lift 

YDS: 5.7 French: 5a Ewbanks: 15 UIAA: V+ ZA: 13 British: MVS 4b R

   
Type:  Trad, 2 pitches, 90'
Consensus:  YDS: 5.7 French: 5a Ewbanks: 15 UIAA: V+ ZA: 13 British: MVS 4b [details]
FA: Rick Mosher and Joe Roland, 1975
Page Views: 2,703
Submitted By: Jon Hanlon on Feb 19, 2006

You & This Route  |  Other Opinions (21)
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Maura cruises the 5.10 second-pitch variation of "...

Description 

This route begins at the obvious flake between Applied Magnetics and the descent gully. Climb the flake to a bolt (alternately, you can climb the 5.10a face left of the flake past a Leeper hanger). Easy friction leads to a second bolt. From this second bolt, the route continues straight up to a third bolt near the "Too Mucking Futch" trough. A traverse and a very long sling is required to gain the fourth bolt. I prefer to forego the third bolt in favor of keeping a more direct and aesthetic line to the fourth bolt. This makes it a little more runout, so use your judgment. From the fourth bolt, diagonal up and right to a triple bolt belay in a dish.

After the belay, head up and left to the gully (passing 2 bolts), or up and right to a hole and a second bolt, eventually passing two more bolts on the final headwall (my book calls this variation 5.9, but I believe it is 5.10a).

From the first belay one can also angle right to a large hole to climb "Scrub Job" or "Chavez/Mosher."

Protection 

Marginal pro can be found on the route just before the first belay. Gear placements and a large oak tree can be found for an anchor at the top of the second pitch


Photos of Face Lift Slideshow Add Photo
Marisa Fienup climbs the left-hand (5.10a) variation to the start of Face Lift at San Ysidro.
Marisa Fienup climbs the left-hand (5.10a) variati...
Zack Grossman climbs the 5.10 variation of Face Lift, high above San Ysidro Canyon.
Zack Grossman climbs the 5.10 variation of Face Li...
Andy belays from atop pitch-1 of Face Lift.
Andy belays from atop pitch-1 of Face Lift.
Face Lift topo:  <br /> <br />Green Line: standard route; <br />Yellow Line: 5.10a/b variation; <br />Orange Line: Tigger Treat variation.
BETA PHOTO: Face Lift topo:

Green Line: standard route@SEMIC...
Another way of doing things: lately, when I am taking inexperienced climbers up Face Lift, I climb the pictured variation.  This variation involves pulling up early on the first pitch and belaying from a comfortable ledge.  The second pitch bypasses the usual belay stance altogether and climbs straight up from the route's fourth bolt and passes another bolt to gain an obvious ledge with trees.  While this is seriously runout for the leader, it is much less likely to produce a serious pendulum for the second.  I believe that this variation follows the upper portion of the route known as "Tigger Treat" (5.8) in the Edward's Guidebook.
Another way of doing things: lately, when I am tak...
Coralee Wray heads up the left-hand (5.10a) variation to the start of Face Lift.  Fun and sequential climbing leads past small features.
Coralee Wray heads up the left-hand (5.10a) variat...
Santa Barbara local Pat Shourds takes a solo-stroll up Face Lift.
Santa Barbara local Pat Shourds takes a solo-strol...
Marisa Fienup is past the crux, on the left-hand (5.10a) variation to Face Lift at San Ysidro.
Marisa Fienup is past the crux, on the left-hand (...

Comments on Face Lift Add Comment
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Comments displayed oldest to newestSkip Ahead to the Most Recent Dated Dec 18, 2012
By Matthew Fienup
Administrator
From: Ventura, CA
Feb 25, 2006

When deciding which bolts to clip, be sure to consider the health and well-being of your second. The sequence of bolts that leaders use often makes this route more seriously runout for the second than the leader.

Remember, you can always clip a bolt, climb to the next bolt, back-track, and clean the previous bolt.

[I'm not specifically commenting on Jon's stratey of skipping the 3rd bolt. It's the 4th bolt that I'm thinking of. The line from the 3rd to the 4th bolt is dead horizontal. Jon's strategy likely aleviates my concern. I clip the 5th bolt, down climb and back-clean the 4th.]
By Jon Hanlon
From: SLO
Feb 25, 2006

Not sure how skipping the 3rd bolt, thereby eliminating a traverse and pendulum for the follower makes it more "runout for the second," but ok.

The route really is not desperate, especially for the follower.
By Matthew Fienup
Administrator
From: Ventura, CA
Apr 23, 2006

The second lead bolt on Face Lift was replaced in April, 2006. The bolt that was pulled was a 5/16" wedge bolt (which would have held less than 2,000 lbs when brand new). The new bolt is a 12mm Fixe Triplex expansion bolt.

There are many more of these 5/16" bolts at San Ysidro. All should be treated with great caution.
By Matthew Fienup
Administrator
From: Ventura, CA
Aug 15, 2006

The third lead bolt on Face Lift was replaced in August 2006. The new bolt is a 12mm Fixe Triplex Expansion bolt. The position of the bolt was moved approximately 4 feet to find harder rock in which to place the bolt and an easier stance from which to clip.
By Jeff Mahoney
From: Santa Barbara, CA
Aug 17, 2009

This isn't a trad route, just to clarify.
By Jon Hanlon
From: SLO
Aug 17, 2009

You're right Jeff. When most of these routes were put up there was no such thing as trad (or sport). I think you are pointing out that this is a bolted route with limited opportunities for pro. True, but I would not consider it a sport climb.
By Matthew Fienup
Administrator
From: Ventura, CA
Aug 17, 2009

When I think of a "traditional" face climb, I think of routes that use a mix of removable gear and bolts, where bolts were placed on lead and used very sparingly. These types of traditional face climbs are prevalent in the Needles, Tuolumne, and elsewhere. Face Lift is very much in the style of these other traditional climbs.
By Jeff Mahoney
From: Santa Barbara, CA
Aug 18, 2009

I guess it's just my alpine background (and the fact that I've never placed gear on this route and do consider it a sport climb---run out a bit, but still a sport climb). Yes, Matthew I hear what you're saying, but when the ratio of bolts is so high---and the climb is usually done without placing any pro---then I don't count it as trad. In context, it would be like saying that half the climbs on Toxic were trad because people do place some gear on occasion. (But then again, I consider Snake Dike a sport climb, too, ha!)

Just the usual climbing semantics disagreement at the end of the work day. Cheers all!
By Matthew Fienup
Administrator
From: Ventura, CA
Jan 10, 2012

It's amazing...the friction is so good this time of year (while the route is in the shade all day long) that the harder version of P2 feels like 5.9 or 9+. In the heat of summer, with afternoon sun on the wall, this pitch feels more like 5.10b.

Go climb this thing before Spring arrives!!
By Alex Bury
From: Ojai, CA
Jul 21, 2012

Took a friend up this one again today, doing the direct/harder finish. What a cool route. I must say, however, that not a single bolt (in my opinion) belongs on this route aside from the bolts at the hanging belay and one protecting the harder finish. I skipped every bolt on the first pitch, finding acceptable gear which also kept things reasonable for my follower. Its an easy route. It shouldnt be safe lest it become...boring...
By Matthew Fienup
Administrator
From: Ventura, CA
Jul 28, 2012

This is the first time that I have heard of Mosher & Roland being accused of sanitizing a route...
By Alex Bury
From: Ojai, CA
Dec 18, 2012

Nobody said anything about sanitizing anything. I just think the climb would have been better if they had used less bolts.