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The Monkey House
Routes Sorted
L to R R to L Alpha
Face Full of Bush S 
Monkey Bars S 
Monkey Business S 
Monkey Pause S 
Monkey Puzzle S 
Monkey See, Monkey Do S 
Monkey Shine S 
New Pollution, The S 
Psycho Hose Beast S 
Punishment For Shoplifting S 
Reward aka Convicted Felon, The S 
Schwing Salute S 
Soap on a Rope S 

Face Full of Bush 

YDS: 5.10d French: 6b+ Ewbanks: 21 UIAA: VII+ ZA: 21 British: E3 5b

   
Type:  Sport, 1 pitch, 80'
Consensus:  YDS: 5.10d French: 6b+ Ewbanks: 21 UIAA: VII+ ZA: 21 British: E3 5b [details]
FA: Greg Purnell, October, 1999
Page Views: 1,832
Submitted By: Richard M. Wright on May 21, 2001

You & This Route  |  Other Opinions (41)
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Adam down low on Face Full of Bush.
Temporary closures near Fiscal Cliff: May-July 2014 MORE INFO >>>

Description 

Face Full of Bush (aka Greg's Roof) ascends the large, bulging roof system below The Sprawl and immediately left of Monkey Bars. It climbs the roof on its left side. The climbing in Face Full of Bush begins in the deep wash at a point just before the huge chock stone used to start The Sprawl. Fire up on some good positive edges at 5.9 /5.10 climbing to some yellow blocks that look a whole lot more loose than they really are. Chase the ramp above to the left through the bush and get situated below the overlaps of the roof, chill, you'll need it for the pump about to unleash. Head into the overlaps on big reaches to largely good holds as the roof gets steeper and steeper. Fire a thin seam on the right to gain the last roof problem and the chains a short way above. Two stars for the good rock, fine climbing moves, and the chance to haul through some steep stone right here at home. Face Full of Bush is pretty easy by Greg's usual standard. As for the name...well, what do you think? It's for the bush on the route.


Protection 

QDs only. This 80 foot route needs 10 - 11 draws and something for the double bolt anchor at the top.



Photos of Face Full of Bush Slideshow Add Photo
Super wild position for how easy it is....
Super wild position for how easy it is....
Another view of the wild roof.
Another view of the wild roof.
Adam in the slab section.
Adam in the slab section.
Adam in the roof.
Adam in the roof.
The fun slabby section before the roof.
The fun slabby section before the roof.
The start.
The start.
Jugs!
Jugs!
Comments on Face Full of Bush Add Comment
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By MARSHALL BRITTLE
Sep 25, 2001

This is a great route with good holds and a strange traverse. Unclipping "drag" draws is a good idea. Moving to the chains is quite the fun move and I think makes the route. The rating is wrong, Richard, that should be 5.10d. Jogs don't make a climb a 5.11, just giving you a hard time, buddy! But it is only 5.10d. Marshall.

By Richard M. Wright
From: Lakewood, CO
Sep 25, 2001

Sorry, you are right about the grade. I checked my notes and Greg and I both gave it 10d.

By david goldstein
Mar 13, 2007

Perhaps my favorite 5.10 in CCC. It's long, has variety and culminates with a sustained, pumpy and tricky headwall.

By doug rouse
From: Denver, CO.
Jul 28, 2008

A very nice pitch. I found this one slightly more difficult than others in the canyon at the same grade; however, I believe the grade would hold in other CO. climbing areas. Wear a helmet for the bush! Young Doug.

By Casey Bernal
From: Arvada, CO
Apr 30, 2009
rating: 5.10d 6b+ 21 VII+ 21 E3 5b

WARNING:

4/29/09 The ample moisture of the last month seems to have loosened the X block between bolts 4 & 5. This caused it and also the two loose blocks below it to come off quite easily (the lower ones were actually holding the X block in). The blocks together were approximately 6' x 4' and more than a foot thick. It is still climbable and possibly easier through that section, but it is really dirty and there are a few small loosies left to go. These blocks left quite a divot at the base of the route, right where the belayer would be, so hopefully it is a little safer now. The X block will now rest in peace under a tree downhill of the climb.

By Monty
From: Golden, CO
Mar 17, 2010

One of my favorite 5.10 pitches in the canyon.

By Jay Eggleston
From: Littleton
Jun 4, 2011
rating: 5.10d 6b+ 21 VII+ 21 E3 5b

This is a must do in CCC. Super fun moves!

By mrbiscoop
Oct 22, 2011

I thought that the crux was going from the last bolt to the anchor. The steep jug haul above the awkward slabby traverse to the left was fun and much easier than it at first appears.

By GabeO
From: Denver, CO
Jun 4, 2012

Agree with Mr Biscoop (above ^^^).

By Curt MacNeill
From: Boulder, CO
Nov 10, 2012

It's been a while since I have been spooked on a sport climb, but the traverse up high below the roof grabbed my attention!