Face Full of Brian
|Consensus: || Hueco: V8 Font: 7B [details]|
|Page Views: ||3,202|
|Submitted By: ||Peter Franzen on Sep 25, 2001|
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Christopher Ticknor well on his way to the top of ...
Face Full of Brian is a powerful overhanging problem in the main [Satellite] Boulders area. It is on the backside (East face) of the boulder that lies on the opposite side of the trail from the BBC. The side that faces the trail has an obvious cave/roof problem on it. The problem lies on the opposite side of that boulder.
The problem starts on two chalked crimps (undercling for the left hand). Fire up to either a tough sloper or a big undercling pocket, then fight to get your feet up, and move up and left to top out. The initial moves are very powerful, and require lots of body tension.
1 crashpad for sure, and a second wouldn't hurt.
|Comments on Face Full of Brian
Apr 13, 2003
...This definitely feels like V8.
Jan 28, 2011
rating: V8 7B
| I find that the easiest beta is to start with both hands low in the underclings as usual, then go left hand to the far left crimp-rail, move your right foot to where your left foot was, flag your left foot way out, and grab the sidepull arete with your right hand (don't worry about getting in the undercling pocket just yet). So, now bring your left heel to match your left hand on the crimp-rail and fall into the terrible sloper with your left. Bear down on the heel and bring your right hand into the deep undercling (crux). Try your hardest to keep the heel and reach up with your left to the dihedral. |
Hope this helps, I felt so stuck with the other ways to tackle this problem and hope it works for you, that being said I really love to heel hook!
|By Cesar Valencia|
Mar 15, 2012
rating: V8 7B
This video shows me doing Face Full of Brian and Girlfriends Backside. Both amazing routes.