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Captain Hook 
Face Full of Brian 

Face Full of Brian 

Hueco: V8 Font: 7B

   
Type:  Boulder
Original:  Hueco: V8 Font: 7B [details]
FA: unknown
Page Views: 4,125
Submitted By: Peter Franzen on Sep 25, 2001

You & This Route  |  Other Opinions (36)
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Face Full of Brian on the backside of the A-7 boul...

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Description 

Face Full of Brian is a powerful overhanging problem in the main [Satellite] Boulders area. It is on the backside (East face) of the boulder that lies on the opposite side of the trail from the BBC. The side that faces the trail has an obvious cave/roof problem on it. The problem lies on the opposite side of that boulder.

The problem starts on two chalked crimps (undercling for the left hand). Fire up to either a tough sloper or a big undercling pocket, then fight to get your feet up, and move up and left to top out. The initial moves are very powerful, and require lots of body tension.

Protection 

1 crashpad for sure, and a second wouldn't hurt.


Photos of Face Full of Brian Slideshow Add Photo
Rock Climbing Photo: Brian attempting Face Full of Brian.
Brian attempting Face Full of Brian.
Rock Climbing Photo: Christopher Ticknor well on his way to the top of ...
Christopher Ticknor well on his way to the top of ...
Rock Climbing Photo: JJ landing the crux first move and sending Face Fu...
JJ landing the crux first move and sending Face Fu...
Rock Climbing Photo: Morta on FFOB. Photo taken by Kieth Roberts
Morta on FFOB. Photo taken by Kieth Roberts
Rock Climbing Photo: Misha Z.
Misha Z.
Rock Climbing Photo: Great short line.
Great short line.
Rock Climbing Photo: Heel beta.
BETA PHOTO: Heel beta.

Comments on Face Full of Brian Add Comment
Show which comments
By jonah
Apr 13, 2003

...This definitely feels like V8.
By GeoffElson
Jan 28, 2011
rating: V8 7B

  • Onsighters beware, beta
I find that the easiest beta is to start with both hands low in the underclings as usual, then go left hand to the far left crimp-rail, move your right foot to where your left foot was, flag your left foot way out, and grab the sidepull arete with your right hand (don't worry about getting in the undercling pocket just yet). So, now bring your left heel to match your left hand on the crimp-rail and fall into the terrible sloper with your left. Bear down on the heel and bring your right hand into the deep undercling (crux). Try your hardest to keep the heel and reach up with your left to the dihedral.
Hope this helps, I felt so stuck with the other ways to tackle this problem and hope it works for you, that being said I really love to heel hook!
By Cesar Valencia
Mar 15, 2012
rating: V8 7B

This video shows me doing Face Full of Brian and Girlfriends Backside. Both amazing routes.


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