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 ADVANCED
3. The Mid Section
Routes Sorted
L to R R to L Alpha
Bruin T 
building steam with a grain of salt T 
Coloring Book T 
Dead Easy T 
DIVIDING LINE for MID-SECTION T 
Face Dances  T 
Fifty Center T 
L' Anniversaire T 
Littoral Zone, The T 
Livin' Easy T 
Pencilneck Geek T 
Rhino Skin T 
Rubberneck T 
Scramble to "Launch Ledge" T 
True Colors T 
Unknown next to L'Anniversaire T 

Face Dances  

YDS: 5.6 French: 4c Ewbanks: 14 UIAA: V ZA: 12 British: S 4b

   
Type:  Trad, 200'
Consensus:  YDS: 5.6 French: 4c Ewbanks: 14 UIAA: V ZA: 12 British: S 4b [details]
FA: Alain Comeau & Janot Mendler Comeau 1981
Page Views: 740
Submitted By: chinos on May 19, 2009

You & This Route  |  Other Opinions (4)
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BETA PHOTO: Slab in the Face Dances Area

Description 

The route starts on the low angled slab and climbs up through the bulge in the white streak. Clip a bolt at the bulge (crux) and continue up past an old bolt to a 2 bolt anchor. Pitch 2 continues up to the woods on easier climbing. Rap with 2 ropes.

Location 

The Mid Section

Protection 

rack, bolts


Photos of Face Dances Slideshow Add Photo
Looking up from the path at the toe of the cliff. ...
BETA PHOTO: Looking up from the path at the toe of the cliff. ...
Alternate P1, 30-40 ft LEFT and below the usual P1...
BETA PHOTO: Alternate P1, 30-40 ft LEFT and below the usual P1...
Topo - Alternate P1 for Face Dances
Topo - Alternate P1 for Face Dances

Comments on Face Dances Add Comment
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By Robert Hall
Administrator
Nov 1, 2013
rating: 5.6 4c 14 V 12 S 4b PG13

If it wasn't for the somewhat out-of-character quality of P1, (5.3-5.4 R/X, and less than stellar rock quality at some of the protection points) this climb would get more stars, the 2nd pitch is really nice. While usually climbed from a belay at a tree on the left, one can also traverse in from the right (where the climbing is easier and the rock better)using a self-established belay.
BEWARE the error in the Handren guide that states the 2nd P is 70feet...it's more like 130-140 ft; in any event even a single 70meter rope (115ft doubled) doesn't get you back to the belay from the anchors.
By Robert Hall
Administrator
Sep 30, 2014
rating: 5.6 4c 14 V 12 S 4b PG13

The 2nd "old bolt" has been replaced.
By Robert Hall
Administrator
Oct 24, 2014
rating: 5.6 4c 14 V 12 S 4b PG13

There's a nicer P1. Take the path down around the 2nd, slimy toe, anmd part way up the watercourse on the left, as if hiking up to the P1 belay. About 25-30 ft up, a ledge with two large "silver" birches marks the START. About 80 ft, 5.2-5.4 (See topo and photo) A dike-line of small pockets on the right provides possible gear placements.