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 ADVANCED
3. The Mid Section
Routes Sorted
L to R R to L Alpha
Bruin T 
building steam with a grain of salt T 
Coloring Book T 
Dead Easy T 
DIVIDING LINE for MID-SECTION T 
Face Dances  T 
Fifty Center T 
L' Anniversaire T 
Littoral Zone, The T 
Livin' Easy T 
Pencilneck Geek T 
Rhino Skin T 
Rubberneck T 
Scramble to "Launch Ledge" T 
True Colors T 
Unknown next to L'Anniversaire T 

Face Dances  

YDS: 5.6 French: 4c Ewbanks: 14 UIAA: V ZA: 12 British: S 4b

   
Type:  Trad, 200'
Consensus:  YDS: 5.6 French: 4c Ewbanks: 14 UIAA: V ZA: 12 British: S 4b [details]
FA: Alain Comeau & Janot Mendler Comeau 1981
Page Views: 731
Submitted By: chinos on May 19, 2009

You & This Route  |  Other Opinions (4)
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BETA PHOTO: Slab in the Face Dances Area

Description 

The route starts on the low angled slab and climbs up through the bulge in the white streak. Clip a bolt at the bulge (crux) and continue up past an old bolt to a 2 bolt anchor. Pitch 2 continues up to the woods on easier climbing. Rap with 2 ropes.

Location 

The Mid Section

Protection 

rack, bolts


Photos of Face Dances Slideshow Add Photo
Looking up from the path at the toe of the cliff. Arrow points to belay at the end of P1 of Face Dances, or get there by steep hiking in woods left of the photo.
BETA PHOTO: Looking up from the path at the toe of the cliff. ...
Alternate P1, 30-40 ft LEFT and below the usual P1 (see topo too)
BETA PHOTO: Alternate P1, 30-40 ft LEFT and below the usual P1...
Topo - Alternate P1 for Face Dances
Topo - Alternate P1 for Face Dances

Comments on Face Dances Add Comment
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By Robert Hall
Nov 1, 2013
rating: 5.6 4c 14 V 12 S 4b PG13

If it wasn't for the somewhat out-of-character quality of P1, (5.3-5.4 R/X, and less than stellar rock quality at some of the protection points) this climb would get more stars, the 2nd pitch is really nice. While usually climbed from a belay at a tree on the left, one can also traverse in from the right (where the climbing is easier and the rock better)using a self-established belay.
BEWARE the error in the Handren guide that states the 2nd P is 70feet...it's more like 130-140 ft; in any event even a single 70meter rope (115ft doubled) doesn't get you back to the belay from the anchors.
By Robert Hall
Sep 30, 2014
rating: 5.6 4c 14 V 12 S 4b PG13

The 2nd "old bolt" has been replaced.
By Robert Hall
6 days ago
rating: 5.6 4c 14 V 12 S 4b PG13

There's a nicer P1. Take the path down around the 2nd, slimy toe, anmd part way up the watercourse on the left, as if hiking up to the P1 belay. About 25-30 ft up, a ledge with two large "silver" birches marks the START. About 80 ft, 5.2-5.4 (See topo and photo) A dike-line of small pockets on the right provides possible gear placements.