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3. The Mid Section
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Face Dances  

YDS: 5.6 French: 4c Ewbanks: 14 UIAA: V ZA: 12 British: S 4b

Type:  Trad, 200'
Consensus:  YDS: 5.6 French: 4c Ewbanks: 14 UIAA: V ZA: 12 British: S 4b [details]
FA: Alain Comeau & Janot Mendler Comeau 1981
Page Views: 676
Submitted By: chinos on May 19, 2009

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The route starts on the low angled slab and climbs up through the bulge in the white streak. Clip a bolt at the bulge (crux) and continue up past an old bolt to a 2 bolt anchor. Pitch 2 continues up to the woods on easier climbing. Rap with 2 ropes.


The Mid Section


rack, bolts

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By Robert Hall
Nov 1, 2013
rating: 5.6 4c 14 V 12 S 4b PG13

If it wasn't for the somewhat out-of-character quality of P1, (5.3-5.4 R/X, and less than stellar rock quality at some of the protection points) this climb would get more stars, the 2nd pitch is really nice. While usually climbed from a belay at a tree on the left, one can also traverse in from the right (where the climbing is easier and the rock better)using a self-established belay.
BEWARE the error in the Handren guide that states the 2nd P is 70feet...it's more like 130-140 ft; in any event even a single 70meter rope (115ft doubled) doesn't get you back to the belay from the anchors.