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Fallen Idol /Face Dancer + Wave/Moss Cave
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Billie Idol (aka "Fallen Idol" p.2) S 
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Confessions of a Mask S 
Diemos S 
Eros S 
Face Dancer S 
Fallen Idol S 
Fallen Idol (Pt I), The S 
Good Luck Mr. Gorsky S 
Kamiakin S 
MaskaBait S 
No More Heroes S 
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Smoke Shapes S 
Travelling Menagerie, The S 
Winds of War S 

Face Dancer 

YDS: 5.11a French: 6c Ewbanks: 22 UIAA: VII+ ZA: 22 British: E3 5c

   
Type:  Sport, 1 pitch, 75'
Consensus:  YDS: 5.11b French: 6c Ewbanks: 23 UIAA: VIII- ZA: 23 British: E3 5c [details]
FA: Joe Desimone
Page Views: 2,199
Submitted By: Jesse Ryan on May 31, 2006

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Beginning up the stellar Face Dancer.

Description 

This fun line pulls pockets and edges with a crux between the second and third bolt, with continuous slightly easier climbing above. A small bulge guards the chains.


Location 

Face Dancer is located 7 bolted lines to the left of the Fallen Idol Pillar. It is the second line up a small pedestal / ramp on the left side of the Fallen Idol face. A newer "Unknown" route (10+) starts immediately right of Face Dancer, while Wicker Man (11a) is right of this.


Protection 

7 bolts to anchors.



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By Joe Desimone
May 21, 2008

Not to take away from Brett Ruckman's prolific accomplishments, but for the record, he is not one who established and FA'd this route. I bolted it in the summer of 1994 with Mitsuru Kitagawa and Bruno Lanson. At the time there were no other routes on this wall. Totally empty. I was inspired to bolt it because the rock on this portion of the cliff is somewhat polished in places and it shines quite brightly when the sunlight strikes it at certain times in the day. Seeing this "shining wall" from the camp ground below lured me into taking a closer look. Soon after the route was born, traveling up through a shiny section on terrific rock. As a bit of trivia, the reason the lower bolts initially trend to the right and then jog back left was to avoid a huge loose flake. It hung there precariously and I didn't want anyone to go near it. The obvious line was to go straight over it, but safer judgment overruled temptation. Later that summer (or perhaps the next spring) I foisted a crowbar up and pried it off with very little persuasion, the remnants of which are buried in the dirt below and down the hillside. The route name comes from watching a pair of climbers ascending the line from the campground below one late afternoon. As the solitary lead climber gracefully made their way up that empty but shiny wall, the name Face Dancer seemed very fitting.

Joe Desimone - Spring 2008

By Kyle vH
Jan 13, 2010

Thanks for putting up this route, Joe.
It's one of my all-time favorites. I was lucky enough to onsight it, and when I think of limestone climbing, I think of this route.