Climb cracks and weaknesses over a small roof to the first bolt. Use a small pocket to get up to the second bolt over the roof. The rock is flaky and makes pulling the roof a true challenge. Climb under the tree and enjoy better climbing above on a nice crystal-filled face. This route would be a good candidate for anchor chains. With some cleaning up, this route will earn more stars. The view from the top is terrific. Bring your camera and set your aperture accordingly!
Around the corner and down (West) from Draw the Line (about 50 feet). Look up high for the bolts. There are no anchors, so walk off to the northwest.
5 bolts and a red Metolius for the flake before the first bolt.
BETA PHOTO: The start for f/8 can be hard to find, so here is ...
From: Smog Lake City, Utah
Jun 23, 2007
Another fun Ferg route that deserves a little more traffic. I thought the business was over after mantleing the giant knob, but as stated above, overlap two was indeed challenging with gritty rock. Crystal pinching up an odd slab arete rounds out a overlooked, partially excellent pitch. Thanks for the photo beta- the first bolt can be hard to pick out from the stream.
From: Salt Lake City, UT
Jul 6, 2007
rating: 5.8+ 5b 16 VI- HVS 4c
Great route. Long for Fergy. Could become a great/classic route with some clean-up. Wasn't sure exactly where to start it, so I started directly below first bolt and worked my way up on to the ramp below the flake. Have a feeling it starts a little lower left..? Just do it!
|By Greg G|
From: SLC, UT
Oct 5, 2010
this route is worth doing! walk around the corner from the 5.9 slab climbs and look for a right facing flake below a sizable chickenhead. this route has it all from a nice juggy mantle, crystal pinching, slab moves, and even an upside down bolt(whats up with that?)! bring gear for an anchor up top and some sandals for the walk off as stated above.