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F5 

YDS: 5.13a French: 7c+ Ewbanks: 29 UIAA: IX+ British: E6 6c

   
Type:  Sport, 1 pitch, 40'
Consensus:  YDS: 5.13a French: 7c+ Ewbanks: 29 UIAA: IX+ British: E6 6c [details]
FA: Greg Parker
Page Views: 743
Submitted By: Greg Parker on Nov 15, 2002
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Description 

This route is just left of Arcing Arm Hairs and starts under the big roof on a jug. Stick-clip the first bolt and tackle the wicked beginning boulder problem. Pull up from the jug to a little mono and then trend up and left on underclings, tiny crimps and little pockets. One final hurdle gets you to the slab where the route eases considerably (to 5.10). Very hard boulder problem but the movement is excellent. To put it in Jeremiah's terms, "it flows".


Protection 

7 bolts, open cold shuts anchor



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Comments displayed oldest to newestSkip Ahead to the Most Recent Dated Jul 7, 2012
By blake workman
Dec 19, 2002

If you like hard boulder problems this one is for you. In my opinion this route is spectacular. Warm the tendons up and pull down, if you can. A little different than most of the routes on the wall, not much fitness required here. Three stars!

By Greg Parker
Administrator
Nov 15, 2006

I was watching some old footage of me and Jeremiah doing this route. It looked really hard. I think it could be 13a.... I don't know. The crux is short, but it's steep and intense. I called it 13a when I got the FA, Blake repeated it quickly (2nd try) and then Jeremiah did it in a day and thought it was 12d (although, he thought Hopeful Monsters was going to be 13a.....)
I need some new-schoolers to go do it and tell me what they think.

By Greg Parker
Administrator
Nov 16, 2006

"Saw Blake try it again two summers ago and he could not do the moves. He was rethinking the grade." - Mike Cronin
Wow. Okay, I'm feeling better about possibly upgrading it. It's hard. Really cool crux sequence though. Your feet just keep cutting off while you're trying to hang on to those small crimps and pockets. I had to fight on the actual redpoint of this route harder than any other route at the Thunderhead. No joke.

By Miah
Dec 23, 2006

Hey all, how's life out there? I just bumped into this thread while looking for photos of Speardog. If I remember F5 has a tricky move pulling the lip, a bomber drop knee and a big toss. What's wrong w/ 12d? It seems like grades are getting softer everywhere. Why not keep the Canyon grades where they are? In fact I saw a posting where one of the new guys suggested Alice be 12c. Why not? Nothing wrong with having something hard for the grade.

Greg are you climbing again? Either way it was good to see your name up there. Anybody know what Blakes up to these days?

By Greg Parker
Administrator
Dec 28, 2006

Hey Miah! I was just talking about you this afternoon (ran into Marv at the coffee shop in Spearfish). Strange that I now see your name up here.
I'm all for having routes be hard for their grade. That footage of us on F5 made the route look really hard. The footage cracked me up by the way. Do you remember screaming "F*ck, I'm gonna vomit!" after you fell? Anyway, maybe it's just the "soft" state that I am in right now, but I was just throwing the upgrade out there.
I am starting to climb again. It's a bit slow going, but I'm getting there. Still can do 13a.... I guess. You should email me your number and email address through this site. I'd love to catch up.

By Miah
Dec 31, 2006

Still talked of in Spearfish? Well that's not a bad thing. I haven't been back in awhile but it still seems like home. I'd be psyched to hear from you. Here's the info: 801.597.1595 or climbonthemoon2000@yahoo.com

Do you know if anyone's done Hopeful yet? That's one route I'd love to send. In climbing here and there I still haven't seen any limestone as impressive or overwhelming.

By Greg Parker
Administrator
Jan 1, 2007

No. Nobody has sent Hopeful yet. Not because the lack of attempts... Jason McNabb has gotten up to the pinches (to our high point). That's the highest anyone has gotten. So far, I believe Andy Raether, Scott Hahn, and some 14a climber from Wyoming have all tried it with no success.
I feel the same way about the route. I daydream all the time about coming back and sending that thing. That and the Deluge at the Thunderhead. Those are the only two routes that really pained me when I left them behind unsent. Maybe someday...

By Miah
Jan 2, 2007

Andy Raether? He's definitely no lightweight. Did he do anyhthing else while he was in town? I've thought about training speciifically for the route and then trying to fly in and send but time seems to be an issue. Who knows, maybe this summer. Has anyone been sending hard (relatively speaking) lately? I hear Cronin and Lee putting up new hard lines. What abut the belly to the left of Faith at the Shadowlands? Any senders? Anybody even trying? There are so many beautiful lines left in the Canyon it's a shame I don't make it back more often. The closest thing for good sport clipping here is Charleston. In fact, the rock is fairly close to Spearfish quality, not quite as good and definitely not as much.

By Greg Parker
Administrator
Jan 2, 2007

I was just up at Sunshine today staring at routes and reminiscing (somebody told there would be climbers up there today). Oh well, it gave me a chance to walk around and stare at all the amazing climbs we have here.
Hopeful Monsters looked as good as I remembered. There are draws hanging on it. Jason's maybe?? Then I walked down to the Thunderhead. Draws on Killtaker, Tempest and Mike's project. So people are definitely trying the hard stuff.
The "14a climber from Wyoming" (I can't remember his name. Somebody help me out) sent the belly to the left of Faith. It's called Witness Protection and he graded it 13c.

By Miah
Jan 3, 2007

Was the "14a climber from Wy" BJ Tilden? He's a good guy. I'm psyched the belly went, 13c seems about right. The day it spanked me I could make all the moves except the deadpoints to those little pockets, burly hard moves. Have you been able to climb at all over the holidays? How about Hopeful you going to give it a run?

By Greg Parker
Administrator
Jul 7, 2012

"Fuck! I'm gonna vomit!". Miah. Classic.