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f. The Guides' Wall (Madame G's)

Routes Sorted
L to R R to L Alpha
Asphodel T 
Bag's End T 
Beatle Brow Bulge T 
Beginner's Delight T 
Bitchy Virgin T 
Blueberry Ledges T 
Blueberry Wine T,TR 
Columbia T 
Delusions of Grandeur T 
Don't Shoot T 
Finger Locks or Cedar Box T 
Friends and Lovers T 
Funny Face T 
Hawk T 
Hyjek's Horror T 
Immaculate Virgin T 
Le Teton T 
Madame Grunnebaum's Wulst T 
Minty T 
Mr. P's Wurst T 
Northern Pillar T 
Peregrine T 
Small Furry Mammals' Club T,TR 
Snooky's Return T 
Son of Bitchy Virgin T 
Southern Pillar T 
Tetonia T 
Tipsy Trees T 
Triple Bulges T 
Twin Oaks T 
Unamed T 
Willie's Weep T 

f. The Guides' Wall (Madame G's) Rock Climbing 


Photos:  Recent | Best | Popular
Location: 41.74053, -74.18289 View Map  Incorrect?
Page Views: 27,673
Administrators: JSH, Kristine Hoffman (sitewide)
Submitted By: JSH on Feb 26, 2011
Forecast:
Tonight

67°
Monday

91° | 69°
Tuesday

89° | 62°
Wednesday

90° | 66°
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90° | 69°
Friday

83° | 67°
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About to rap from the top of Madame G's

Along the Cliff 

last area: The Mac Wall | next area: V3 - Middle Earth

Description 

Major Features: This area features the largest collection of easy multi-pitch routes: Beginner's Delight, Minty, Hawk, Madame Grunnebaum's Wulst, and Northern Pillar, among others. For that reason, you'll often find local guides busy at work around here, especially at the short wall near the base of Finger Locks or Cedar Box.

This area starts with the huge, right-facing orange corner of Asphodel, and continues past Beginner's Delight, Snooky's Return, Minty, Hawk, and the area's centerpiece route, Madame Grunnebaum's Wulst, which aims right up the middle of the massive orange buttress. To the right, the area includes the routes just before, and in the alcove to the left of, the Mantle Block, a large block leaning against the cliff with a 4' roof extending across it.

Approach: Asphodel and neighboring routes can also be reached by the trail leading to Welcome to the Gunks.
The main approach for the middle of this area is this trail, which leads you right up to Minty, which you can recognize through the trees by the large blocks at its base (pic of trail will appear in the spring). Further north is the Mme G's trail.

Descent: There is a bolted rappel line on the rightnorth side of the Madame Grunnebaum's Wulst buttress; a bit of scrambling is necessary to get down to it. Many routes also have intermediate tree anchors.

The bolts over Madame Grunnebaum's Wulst are a short, easy scramble down from the clifftop; they are located on the front side of a large block towards the front of the buttress itself. See the picture under the Mme G's route, which shows what you're looking for. "Back in the day", this rappel used to go from the large tree on the very front corner of the buttress, and getting into position to rappel was ... airy. Even now, it's mostly free-hanging. Two ropes will get you to the ground, or there are a second set of bolts mid-cliff for use with one rope.

Routes, left-to-right 

Asphodel: 5.5, G
Beatle Brow Bulge: 5.9+, PG
Blueberry Wine: 5.10+, R
Blueberry Ledges: 5.5-, G
Seldom Mustard, Never Relish: 5.10, G
Beginner's Delight: 5.3, PG
Octoberfest: 5.9-, R-X
Snooky's Return: 5.8, PG (**)
Friends and Lovers: 5.9, PG
Minty: 5.3, G
Bag's End: 5.8+, PG
Tipsy Trees: 5.3, G
The Womb Step: 5.7, PG
Chimango: 5.9+, PG
Hawk: 5.4+, PG
Peregrine: 5.8, PG
Reach of Faith: 5.10-, PG
Southern Pillar: 5.2, G
Columbia: 5.9-, G
Madame Grunnebaum's Wulst: 5.6, G (**)
Madame Grunnebaum's Sorrow: 5.8-, PG
Tetonia, 5.10
Le Teton: 5.9, G
Finger Locks or Cedar Box: 5.5, G
Northern Pillar: 5.2, G
Hyjek's Horror: 5.8, R
Twin Oaks: 5.3, PG
Triple Bulges: 5.5, PG
Delusions of Grandeur: 5.9+, PG
Willie's Weep: 5.2, G
Don't Shoot: 5.6, G
Lat-On the Season: 5.7, PG
Gleet Street: 5.8, R
Funny Face: 5.5-, PG
Son of Bitchy Virgin: 5.6, PG
Immaculate Virgin: 5.6, PG
Bitchy Virgin: 5.6, R
Unamed: 5.2, G

Climbing Season



Weather station 2.5 miles from here

32 Total Climbing Routes

['4 Stars',1],['3 Stars',8],['2 Stars',19],['1 Star',2],['Bomb',1]
['<=5.6',19],['5.7',2],['5.8',5],['5.9',4],['5.10',1],['5.11',1],['5.12',0],['5.13',0],['>=5.14',0],['',0],['<=V1',0],['V2-3',0],['V4-5',0],['V6-7',0],['V8-9',0],['V10-11',0],['V12-13',0],['>=V14',0]

Classic Climbing Routes in f. The Guides' Wall (Madame G's)

Mountain Project's determination of the classic, most popular, highest rated climbing routes for f. The Guides' Wall (Madame G's):
Northern Pillar   5.3 3+ 10 III 9 VD 3a     Trad, 3 pitches, 220'   
Southern Pillar   5.4 4a 12 IV 10 VD 3c     Trad, 2 pitches, 150'   
Minty   5.4 4a 12 IV 10 VD 3c     Trad, 3 pitches, 250'   
Tipsy Trees   5.4 4a 12 IV 10 VD 3c     Trad, 3 pitches, 200'   
Beginner's Delight   5.4 4a 12 IV 10 VD 3c     Trad, 3 pitches, 250'   
Asphodel   5.5 4b 13 IV+ 11 MS 4a     Trad, 1 pitch, 120'   
Finger Locks or Cedar Box   5.5 4b 13 IV+ 11 MS 4a     Trad, 1 pitch, 50'   
Hawk   5.5 4b 13 IV+ 11 MS 4a     Trad, 3 pitches, 290'   
Triple Bulges   5.5 4b 13 IV+ 11 MS 4a     Trad, 2 pitches, 180'   
Immaculate Virgin   5.6 4c 14 V 12 S 4b PG13     Trad, 2 pitches, 190'   
Madame Grunnebaum's Wulst   5.6 4c 14 V 12 S 4b     Trad, 3 pitches, 210'   
Son of Bitchy Virgin   5.6 4c 14 V 12 S 4b PG13     Trad, 2 pitches, 180'   
Snooky's Return   5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c     Trad, 3 pitches   
Columbia   5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c     Trad, 2 pitches, 200'   
Mr. P's Wurst   5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c     Trad, 3 pitches, 170'   
Hyjek's Horror   5.8+ 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c R     Trad, 1 pitch, 60'   
Friends and Lovers   5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a PG13     Trad, 3 pitches, 230'   
Le Teton   5.9+ 5c 17 VI 17 E1 5a     Trad, 1 pitch, 50'   
Beatle Brow Bulge   5.9+ 5c 17 VI 17 E1 5a     Trad, 2 pitches, 250'   
Tetonia   5.10b 6a+ 19 VII- 19 E2 5b PG13     Trad, 1 pitch, 180'   
Browse More Rock Climbing Classics in f. The Guides' Wall (Madame G's)

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Rock Climbing Photo: The Madame G's buttress. The route ascends the mid...

Madame Grunnebaum's Wulst 5.6 4c 14 V 12 S 4b  NY : The Gunks : ... : f. The Guides' Wall (Madame...
Madame G's rivals High Exposure closely for the title of best Gunks 5.6. While High E has "the move", Madame G's has a longer section of sweet, steep 5.6 jugs up a massive, exposed and unique orange buttress formed by large left-facing (Southern Pillar, 5.2) and right-facing (Northern Pillar, 5.4) dihedrals on either side.P1: Follow the thin crack to the tree. 5.4, 50'.P2: Traverse right into a steep left-facing dihedral, with jugs and jams. At the top, traverse right and belay on a small stance at...[more]   Browse More Classics in NY

Photos of f. The Guides' Wall (Madame G's) Slideshow Add Photo
Rock Climbing Photo: The first pitch of Columbia, which follows the obv...
BETA PHOTO: The first pitch of Columbia, which follows the obv...
Rock Climbing Photo: Bitchy Virgin approach trail (note immense boulder...
BETA PHOTO: Bitchy Virgin approach trail (note immense boulder...
Rock Climbing Photo: Madame G's approach trail.  The next trail is ...
BETA PHOTO: Madame G's approach trail. The next trail is ...
Rock Climbing Photo: P1 of Beginner's Delight
BETA PHOTO: P1 of Beginner's Delight
Rock Climbing Photo: Minty approach trail (pine tree on right and small...
BETA PHOTO: Minty approach trail (pine tree on right and small...
Rock Climbing Photo: The giant dihedral of Asphodel
BETA PHOTO: The giant dihedral of Asphodel
Rock Climbing Photo: Start of Snooky's Return (5.8 variation - the 5.7 ...
BETA PHOTO: Start of Snooky's Return (5.8 variation - the 5.7 ...
Rock Climbing Photo: The Madame G's buttress. The route ascends the mid...
BETA PHOTO: The Madame G's buttress. The route ascends the mid...

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