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f. The Guides' Wall (Madame G's)

Routes Sorted
L to R R to L Alpha
Bag's End 
Beatle Brow Bulge 
Beginner's Delight 
Bitchy Virgin 
Blueberry Ledges 
Delusions of Grandeur 
Finger Locks or Cedar Box 
Friends and Lovers 
Funny Face 
Hyjek's Horror 
Immaculate Virgin 
Le Teton 
Madame Grunnebaum's Wulst 
Mr. P's Wurst 
Northern Pillar 
Snooky's Return 
Son of Bitchy Virgin 
Southern Pillar 
Tipsy Trees 
Triple Bulges 
Twin Oaks 
Willie's Weep 

f. The Guides' Wall (Madame G's) 

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Administrators: JSH, Kristine Hoffman
Submitted By: JSH on Feb 26, 2011
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  • Along the Cliff 

    last area: The Mac Wall | next area: V3 - Middle Earth


    Major Features: This area features the largest collection of easy multi-pitch routes: Beginner's Delight, Minty, Hawk, Madame Grunnebaum's Wulst, and Northern Pillar, among others. For that reason, you'll often find local guides busy at work around here, especially at the short wall near the base of Finger Locks or Cedar Box.

    This area starts with the huge, right-facing orange corner of Asphodel, and continues past Beginner's Delight, Snooky's Return, Minty, Hawk, and the area's centerpiece route, Madame Grunnebaum's Wulst, which aims right up the middle of the massive orange buttress. To the right, the area includes the routes just before, and in the alcove to the left of, the Mantle Block, a large block leaning against the cliff with a 4' roof extending across it.

    Approach: The main approach for this area is a trail that leads right up to Minty, which you can recognize through the trees by the large blocks at its base (pic of trail will appear in the spring). Asphodel and neighboring routes can also be reached by the trail leading to Welcome to the Gunks (pic to appear in spring).

    Descent: There are two major descent routes in the area: trees and bolts over Snooky's Return, and a bolted rappel line on the right side of the Madame Grunnebaum's Wulst buttress. Many routes also have intermediate tree anchors.

    The bolts over Madame Grunnebaum's Wulst are a short, easy scramble down from the clifftop; they are located on the front side of a large block towards the front of the buttress itself. See the picture under the Mme G's route, which shows what you're looking for. "Back in the day", this rappel used to go from the large tree on the very front corner of the buttress, and getting into position to rappel was ... airy. Even now, it's mostly free-hanging. Two ropes will get you to the ground, or there are a second set of bolts mid-cliff for use with one rope.

    Routes, left-to-right 

    Asphodel: 5.5, G
    Beatle Brow Bulge: 5.9+, PG
    Blueberry Wine: 5.10+, R
    Blueberry Ledges: 5.5-, G
    Seldom Mustard, Never Relish: 5.10, G
    Beginner's Delight: 5.3, PG
    Octoberfest: 5.9-, R-X
    Snooky's Return: 5.8, PG (**)
    Friends and Lovers: 5.9, PG
    Minty: 5.3, G
    Bag's End: 5.8+, PG
    Tipsy Trees: 5.3, G
    The Womb Step: 5.7, PG
    Chimango: 5.9+, PG
    Hawk: 5.4+, PG
    Peregrine: 5.8, PG
    Reach of Faith: 5.10-, PG
    Southern Pillar: 5.2, G
    Columbia: 5.9-, G
    Madame Grunnebaum's Wulst: 5.6, G (**)
    Madame Grunnebaum's Sorrow: 5.8-, PG
    Tetonia, 5.10
    Le Teton: 5.9, G
    Finger Locks or Cedar Box: 5.5, G
    Northern Pillar: 5.2, G
    Hyjek's Horror: 5.8, R
    Twin Oaks: 5.3, PG
    Triple Bulges: 5.5, PG
    Delusions of Grandeur: 5.9+, PG
    Willie's Weep: 5.2, G
    Don't Shoot: 5.6, G
    Lat-On the Season: 5.7, PG
    Gleet Street: 5.8, R
    Funny Face: 5.5-, PG
    Son of Bitchy Virgin: 5.6, PG
    Immaculate Virgin: 5.6, PG
    Bitchy Virgin: 5.6, R
    Unamed: 5.2, G

    29 Total Routes

    ['4 Stars',1],['3 Stars',8],['2 Stars',13],['1 Star',6],['Bomb',0]

    The Classics

    Mountain Project's determination of some of the classic, most popular, highest rated routes for f. The Guides' Wall (Madame G's):
    Tipsy Trees   5.4 4a 12 IV VD 3c     Trad, 3 pitches, 200'   
    Minty   5.4 4a 12 IV VD 3c     Trad, 3 pitches, 250'   
    Northern Pillar   5.4 4a 12 IV VD 3c     Trad, 3 pitches, 220'   
    Beginner's Delight   5.4 4a 12 IV VD 3c     Trad, 3 pitches, 250'   
    Asphodel   5.5 4b 13 IV+ MS 4a     Trad, 1 pitch, 120'   
    Finger Locks or Cedar Box   5.5 4b 13 IV+ MS 4a     Trad, 1 pitch, 50'   
    Hawk   5.5 4b 13 IV+ MS 4a     Trad, 3 pitches, 290'   
    Son of Bitchy Virgin   5.6 4c 14 V S 4b PG13     Trad, 2 pitches, 180'   
    Madame Grunnebaum's Wulst   5.6 4c 14 V S 4b     Trad, 3 pitches, 210'   
    Peregrine   5.7 5a 15 V+ MVS 4b     Trad, 3 pitches, 260'   
    Mr. P's Wurst   5.8 5b 16 VI- HVS 4c     Trad, 3 pitches, 170'   
    Snooky's Return   5.8 5b 16 VI- HVS 4c     Trad, 3 pitches   
    Hyjek's Horror   5.8+ 5b 16 VI- HVS 4c R     Trad, 1 pitch, 60'   
    Bag's End   5.8+ 5b 16 VI- HVS 4c R     Trad, 3 pitches, 210'   
    Columbia   5.9- 5c 17 VI HVS 4c     Trad, 2 pitches, 200'   
    Friends and Lovers   5.9 5c 17 VI HVS 5a PG13     Trad, 3 pitches, 230'   
    Le Teton   5.9+ 5c 17 VI E1 5a     Trad, 1 pitch, 50'   
    Beatle Brow Bulge   5.10- 6a 18 VI+ E1 5a     Trad, 2 pitches, 250'   
    Tetonia   5.10b 6a+ 19 VII- E2 5b PG13     Trad, 1 pitch, 180'   
    Browse More Classics in f. The Guides' Wall (Madame G's)

    Featured Route For f. The Guides' Wall (Madame G's)
    I'm just past the crux on Le Teton. Photo by Kayte Knower

    Le Teton 5.9+ 5c 17 VI E1 5a  NY : The Gunks : ... : f. The Guides' Wall (Madame...
    In any other part of the country this would easily be 5.10a. It actually reminds me of "Rosy Crucifixion" in Eldo, but slightly less scary.There are many variations to the top: pick one and go ... The climb starts in the crack on the left-facing face below the tree. Traverse into the crack and head straight up. At the end of the crack, traverse left under the energy-depleting roof then around the corner, clipping a couple of junky pins. From here, head up and slightly right - don't clip the pi...[more]   Browse More Classics in NY

    Photos of f. The Guides' Wall (Madame G's) Slideshow Add Photo
    About to rap from the top of Madame G's
    About to rap from the top of Madame G's
    P1 of Beginner's Delight
    BETA PHOTO: P1 of Beginner's Delight
    Start of Snooky's Return (5.8 variation - the 5.7 moves are to the right of the crack)
    BETA PHOTO: Start of Snooky's Return (5.8 variation - the 5.7 ...
    The Madame G's buttress. The route ascends the middle of the face.
    BETA PHOTO: The Madame G's buttress. The route ascends the mid...
    The giant dihedral of Asphodel
    BETA PHOTO: The giant dihedral of Asphodel
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