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f. The Guides' Wall (Madame G's)

Routes Sorted
L to R R to L Alpha
Asphodel T 
Bag's End T 
Beatle Brow Bulge T 
Beginner's Delight T 
Bitchy Virgin T 
Blueberry Ledges T 
Blueberry Wine T,TR 
Columbia T 
Delusions of Grandeur T 
Don't Shoot T 
Finger Locks or Cedar Box T 
Friends and Lovers T 
Funny Face T 
Hawk T 
Hyjek's Horror T 
Immaculate Virgin T 
Le Teton T 
Madame Grunnebaum's Wulst T 
Minty T 
Mr. P's Wurst T 
Northern Pillar T 
Peregrine T 
Snooky's Return T 
Son of Bitchy Virgin T 
Southern Pillar T 
Tetonia T 
Tipsy Trees T 
Triple Bulges T 
Twin Oaks T 
Unamed T 
Willie's Weep T 
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f. The Guides' Wall (Madame G's)  


Photos:  Recent | Best | Popular
Location: 41.74053, -74.18289 View Map  Incorrect?
Page Views: 120,121
Administrators: JSH, Kristine Hoffman (sitewide)
Submitted By: JSH on Feb 26, 2011
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BETA PHOTO: The first pitch of Columbia, which follows the obv...

Seasonal Raptor Closure from Moondance to After the Prick MORE INFO >>>

Along the Cliff 

last area: The Mac Wall | next area: V3 - Middle Earth

Description 

Major Features: This area features the largest collection of easy multi-pitch routes: Beginner's Delight, Minty, Hawk, Madame Grunnebaum's Wulst, and Northern Pillar, among others. For that reason, you'll often find local guides busy at work around here, especially at the short wall near the base of Finger Locks or Cedar Box.

This area starts with the huge, right-facing orange corner of Asphodel, and continues past Beginner's Delight, Snooky's Return, Minty, Hawk, and the area's centerpiece route, Madame Grunnebaum's Wulst, which aims right up the middle of the massive orange buttress. To the right, the area includes the routes just before, and in the alcove to the left of, the Mantle Block, a large block leaning against the cliff with a 4' roof extending across it.

Approach: Asphodel and neighboring routes can also be reached by the trail leading to Welcome to the Gunks.
The main approach for the middle of this area is this trail, which leads you right up to Minty, which you can recognize through the trees by the large blocks at its base (pic of trail will appear in the spring). Further north is the Mme G's trail.

Descent: There is a bolted rappel line on the rightnorth side of the Madame Grunnebaum's Wulst buttress; a bit of scrambling is necessary to get down to it. Many routes also have intermediate tree anchors.

The bolts over Madame Grunnebaum's Wulst are a short, easy scramble down from the clifftop; they are located on the front side of a large block towards the front of the buttress itself. See the picture under the Mme G's route, which shows what you're looking for. "Back in the day", this rappel used to go from the large tree on the very front corner of the buttress, and getting into position to rappel was ... airy. Even now, it's mostly free-hanging. Two ropes will get you to the ground, or there are a second set of bolts mid-cliff for use with one rope.

Routes, left-to-right 

Asphodel: 5.5, G
Beatle Brow Bulge: 5.9+, PG
Blueberry Wine: 5.10+, R
Blueberry Ledges: 5.5-, G
Seldom Mustard, Never Relish: 5.10, G
Beginner's Delight: 5.3, PG
Octoberfest: 5.9-, R-X
Snooky's Return: 5.8, PG (**)
Friends and Lovers: 5.9, PG
Minty: 5.3, G
Bag's End: 5.8+, PG
Tipsy Trees: 5.3, G
The Womb Step: 5.7, PG
Chimango: 5.9+, PG
Hawk: 5.4+, PG
Peregrine: 5.8, PG
Reach of Faith: 5.10-, PG
Southern Pillar: 5.2, G
Columbia: 5.9-, G
Madame Grunnebaum's Wulst: 5.6, G (**)
Madame Grunnebaum's Sorrow: 5.8-, PG
Tetonia, 5.10
Le Teton: 5.9, G
Finger Locks or Cedar Box: 5.5, G
Northern Pillar: 5.2, G
Hyjek's Horror: 5.8, R
Twin Oaks: 5.3, PG
Triple Bulges: 5.5, PG
Delusions of Grandeur: 5.9+, PG
Willie's Weep: 5.2, G
Don't Shoot: 5.6, G
Lat-On the Season: 5.7, PG
Gleet Street: 5.8, R
Funny Face: 5.5-, PG
Son of Bitchy Virgin: 5.6, PG
Immaculate Virgin: 5.6, PG
Bitchy Virgin: 5.6, R
Unamed: 5.2, G

Climbing Season



Weather station 2.5 miles from here

31 Total Routes

['4 Stars',1],['3 Stars',8],['2 Stars',14],['1 Star',6],['Bomb',1]
['<=5.6',19],['5.7',1],['5.8',4],['5.9',4],['5.10',2],['5.11',1],['5.12',0],['5.13',0],['>=5.14',0],['',0],['<=V1',0],['V2-3',0],['V4-5',0],['V6-7',0],['V8-9',0],['V10-11',0],['V12-13',0],['>=V14',0]

The Classics

Mountain Project's determination of some of the classic, most popular, highest rated routes for f. The Guides' Wall (Madame G's):
Southern Pillar   5.4 4a 12 IV 10 VD 3c     Trad, 2 pitches, 150'   
Tipsy Trees   5.4 4a 12 IV 10 VD 3c     Trad, 3 pitches, 200'   
Minty   5.4 4a 12 IV 10 VD 3c     Trad, 3 pitches, 250'   
Beginner's Delight   5.4 4a 12 IV 10 VD 3c     Trad, 3 pitches, 250'   
Northern Pillar   5.4 4a 12 IV 10 VD 3c     Trad, 3 pitches, 220'   
Triple Bulges   5.5 4b 13 IV+ 11 MS 4a     Trad, 2 pitches, 180'   
Asphodel   5.5 4b 13 IV+ 11 MS 4a     Trad, 1 pitch, 120'   
Hawk   5.5 4b 13 IV+ 11 MS 4a     Trad, 3 pitches, 290'   
Finger Locks or Cedar Box   5.5 4b 13 IV+ 11 MS 4a     Trad, 1 pitch, 50'   
Immaculate Virgin   5.6 4c 14 V 12 S 4b PG13     Trad, 2 pitches, 190'   
Son of Bitchy Virgin   5.6 4c 14 V 12 S 4b PG13     Trad, 2 pitches, 180'   
Madame Grunnebaum's Wulst   5.6 4c 14 V 12 S 4b     Trad, 3 pitches, 210'   
Snooky's Return   5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c     Trad, 3 pitches   
Mr. P's Wurst   5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c     Trad, 3 pitches, 170'   
Hyjek's Horror   5.8+ 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c R     Trad, 1 pitch, 60'   
Columbia   5.9- 5c 17 VI 16 HVS 4c     Trad, 2 pitches, 200'   
Friends and Lovers   5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a PG13     Trad, 3 pitches, 230'   
Le Teton   5.9+ 5c 17 VI 17 E1 5a     Trad, 1 pitch, 50'   
Beatle Brow Bulge   5.10- 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a     Trad, 2 pitches, 250'   
Tetonia   5.10b 6a+ 19 VII- 19 E2 5b PG13     Trad, 1 pitch, 180'   
Browse More Classics in f. The Guides' Wall (Madame G's)

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The Madame G's buttress. The route ascends the mid...

Madame Grunnebaum's Wulst 5.6 4c 14 V 12 S 4b  NY : The Gunks : ... : f. The Guides' Wall (Madame...
Madame G's rivals High Exposure closely for the title of best Gunks 5.6. While High E has "the move", Madame G's has a longer section of sweet, steep 5.6 jugs up a massive, exposed and unique orange buttress formed by large left-facing (Southern Pillar, 5.2) and right-facing (Northern Pillar, 5.4) dihedrals on either side.P1: Follow the thin crack to the tree. 5.4, 50'.P2: Traverse right into a steep left-facing dihedral, with jugs and jams. At the top, traverse right and belay on a small stance at...[more]   Browse More Classics in NY

Photos of f. The Guides' Wall (Madame G's) Slideshow Add Photo
About to rap from the top of Madame G's
About to rap from the top of Madame G's
P1 of Beginner's Delight
BETA PHOTO: P1 of Beginner's Delight
Minty approach trail. Look for pine tree on right ...
BETA PHOTO: Minty approach trail. Look for pine tree on right ...
The giant dihedral of Asphodel
BETA PHOTO: The giant dihedral of Asphodel
Start of Snooky's Return (5.8 variation - the 5.7 ...
BETA PHOTO: Start of Snooky's Return (5.8 variation - the 5.7 ...
Bitchy Virgin approach trail (note giant boulder i...
BETA PHOTO: Bitchy Virgin approach trail (note giant boulder i...
The Madame G's buttress. The route ascends the mid...
BETA PHOTO: The Madame G's buttress. The route ascends the mid...
Madam G's approach trail
BETA PHOTO: Madam G's approach trail

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