f. The Guides' Wall (Madame G's) Rock Climbing
About to rap from the top of Madame G's
Along the Cliff
This area features the largest collection of easy multi-pitch routes: Beginner's Delight
, Madame Grunnebaum's Wulst
, and Northern Pillar
, among others. For that reason, you'll often find local guides busy at work around here, especially at the short wall near the base of Finger Locks or Cedar Box
This area starts with the huge, right-facing orange corner of Asphodel
, and continues past Beginner's Delight
, Snooky's Return
, and the area's centerpiece route, Madame Grunnebaum's Wulst
, which aims right up the middle of the massive orange buttress. To the right, the area includes the routes just before, and in the alcove to the left of, the Mantle Block, a large block leaning against the cliff with a 4' roof extending across it. Approach: Asphodel
and neighboring routes can also be reached by the trail leading to Welcome to the Gunks
The main approach for the middle of this area is this trail
, which leads you right up to Minty
, which you can recognize through the trees by the large blocks at its base (pic of trail will appear in the spring). Further north is the Mme G's trail
There is a bolted rappel line on the rightnorth side of the Madame Grunnebaum's Wulst
buttress; a bit of scrambling is necessary to get down to it. Many routes also have intermediate tree anchors.
The bolts over Madame Grunnebaum's Wulst
are a short, easy scramble down from the clifftop; they are located on the front side of a large block towards the front of the buttress itself. See the picture under the Mme G's route, which shows what you're looking for. "Back in the day", this rappel used to go from the large tree on the very front corner of the buttress, and getting into position to rappel was ... airy. Even now, it's mostly free-hanging. Two ropes will get you to the ground, or there are a second set of bolts mid-cliff for use with one rope.
: 5.5, G Beatle Brow Bulge
: 5.9+, PG
Blueberry Wine: 5.10+, R Blueberry Ledges
: 5.5-, G
Seldom Mustard, Never Relish: 5.10, G Beginner's Delight
: 5.3, PG
Octoberfest: 5.9-, R-X Snooky's Return
: 5.8, PG (**) Friends and Lovers
: 5.9, PG Minty
: 5.3, G Bag's End
: 5.8+, PG Tipsy Trees
: 5.3, G
The Womb Step: 5.7, PG
Chimango: 5.9+, PG Hawk
: 5.4+, PG Peregrine
: 5.8, PG
Reach of Faith: 5.10-, PG Southern Pillar
: 5.2, G Columbia
: 5.9-, G Madame Grunnebaum's Wulst
: 5.6, G (**)
Madame Grunnebaum's Sorrow: 5.8-, PG Tetonia
, 5.10 Le Teton
: 5.9, G Finger Locks or Cedar Box
: 5.5, G Northern Pillar
: 5.2, G Hyjek's Horror
: 5.8, R Twin Oaks
: 5.3, PG Triple Bulges
: 5.5, PG
Delusions of Grandeur: 5.9+, PG Willie's Weep
: 5.2, G
Don't Shoot: 5.6, G
Lat-On the Season: 5.7, PG
Gleet Street: 5.8, R Funny Face
: 5.5-, PG Son of Bitchy Virgin
: 5.6, PG Immaculate Virgin
: 5.6, PG Bitchy Virgin
: 5.6, R Unamed
: 5.2, G
Weather station 2.5 miles from here
32 Total Climbing Routes
['4 Stars',1],['3 Stars',8],['2 Stars',19],['1 Star',2],['Bomb',1]
Classic Climbing Routes in f. The Guides' Wall (Madame G's)
Browse More Rock Climbing Classics in f. The Guides' Wall (Madame G's)
Mountain Project's determination of the classic, most popular, highest rated climbing routes for f. The Guides' Wall (Madame G's):
Minty 5.4 4a 12 IV 10 VD 3c Trad, 3 pitches, 250'
Tipsy Trees 5.4 4a 12 IV 10 VD 3c Trad, 3 pitches, 200'
Asphodel 5.5 4b 13 IV+ 11 MS 4a Trad, 1 pitch, 120'
Hawk 5.5 4b 13 IV+ 11 MS 4a Trad, 3 pitches, 290'
Columbia 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c Trad, 2 pitches, 200'
Le Teton 5.9+ 5c 17 VI 17 E1 5a Trad, 1 pitch, 50'
Tetonia 5.10b 6a+ 19 VII- 19 E2 5b
PG13 Trad, 1 pitch, 180'
Featured Route For f. The Guides' Wall (Madame G's)
Madame Grunnebaum's Wulst 5.6 4c 14 V 12 S 4b NY
: The Gunks
: ... : f. The Guides' Wall (Madame...
Madame G's rivals High Exposure closely for the title of best Gunks 5.6. While High E has "the move", Madame G's has a longer section of sweet, steep 5.6 jugs up a massive, exposed and unique orange buttress formed by large left-facing (Southern Pillar, 5.2) and right-facing (Northern Pillar, 5.4) dihedrals on either side.P1: Follow the thin crack to the tree. 5.4, 50'.P2: Traverse right into a steep left-facing dihedral, with jugs and jams. At the top, traverse right and belay on a small stance at...[more] Browse More Classics in NY
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