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f. The Guides' Wall (Madame G's)

Routes Sorted
L to R R to L Alpha
Asphodel T 
Bag's End T 
Beatle Brow Bulge T 
Beginner's Delight T 
Bitchy Virgin T 
Blueberry Ledges T 
Blueberry Wine T,TR 
Columbia T 
Delusions of Grandeur T 
Finger Locks or Cedar Box T 
Friends and Lovers T 
Funny Face T 
Hawk T 
Hyjek's Horror T 
Immaculate Virgin T 
Le Teton T 
Madame Grunnebaum's Wulst T 
Minty T 
Mr. P's Wurst T 
Northern Pillar T 
Peregrine T 
Snooky's Return T 
Son of Bitchy Virgin T 
Southern Pillar T 
Tetonia T 
Tipsy Trees T 
Triple Bulges T 
Twin Oaks T 
Unamed T 
Willie's Weep T 

f. The Guides' Wall (Madame G's)  


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Location: 41.74053, -74.18289 View Map  Incorrect?
Page Views: 106,964
Administrators: JSH, Kristine Hoffman (sitewide)
Submitted By: JSH on Feb 26, 2011
Forecast:
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BETA PHOTO: The first pitch of Columbia, which follows the obv...

Along the Cliff 

last area: The Mac Wall | next area: V3 - Middle Earth

Description 

Major Features: This area features the largest collection of easy multi-pitch routes: Beginner's Delight, Minty, Hawk, Madame Grunnebaum's Wulst, and Northern Pillar, among others. For that reason, you'll often find local guides busy at work around here, especially at the short wall near the base of Finger Locks or Cedar Box.

This area starts with the huge, right-facing orange corner of Asphodel, and continues past Beginner's Delight, Snooky's Return, Minty, Hawk, and the area's centerpiece route, Madame Grunnebaum's Wulst, which aims right up the middle of the massive orange buttress. To the right, the area includes the routes just before, and in the alcove to the left of, the Mantle Block, a large block leaning against the cliff with a 4' roof extending across it.

Approach: The main approach for this area is a trail that leads right up to Minty, which you can recognize through the trees by the large blocks at its base (pic of trail will appear in the spring). Asphodel and neighboring routes can also be reached by the trail leading to Welcome to the Gunks (pic to appear in spring).

Descent: There are two major descent routes in the area: trees and bolts over Snooky's Return, and a bolted rappel line on the right side of the Madame Grunnebaum's Wulst buttress. Many routes also have intermediate tree anchors.

The bolts over Madame Grunnebaum's Wulst are a short, easy scramble down from the clifftop; they are located on the front side of a large block towards the front of the buttress itself. See the picture under the Mme G's route, which shows what you're looking for. "Back in the day", this rappel used to go from the large tree on the very front corner of the buttress, and getting into position to rappel was ... airy. Even now, it's mostly free-hanging. Two ropes will get you to the ground, or there are a second set of bolts mid-cliff for use with one rope.

Routes, left-to-right 

Asphodel: 5.5, G
Beatle Brow Bulge: 5.9+, PG
Blueberry Wine: 5.10+, R
Blueberry Ledges: 5.5-, G
Seldom Mustard, Never Relish: 5.10, G
Beginner's Delight: 5.3, PG
Octoberfest: 5.9-, R-X
Snooky's Return: 5.8, PG (**)
Friends and Lovers: 5.9, PG
Minty: 5.3, G
Bag's End: 5.8+, PG
Tipsy Trees: 5.3, G
The Womb Step: 5.7, PG
Chimango: 5.9+, PG
Hawk: 5.4+, PG
Peregrine: 5.8, PG
Reach of Faith: 5.10-, PG
Southern Pillar: 5.2, G
Columbia: 5.9-, G
Madame Grunnebaum's Wulst: 5.6, G (**)
Madame Grunnebaum's Sorrow: 5.8-, PG
Tetonia, 5.10
Le Teton: 5.9, G
Finger Locks or Cedar Box: 5.5, G
Northern Pillar: 5.2, G
Hyjek's Horror: 5.8, R
Twin Oaks: 5.3, PG
Triple Bulges: 5.5, PG
Delusions of Grandeur: 5.9+, PG
Willie's Weep: 5.2, G
Don't Shoot: 5.6, G
Lat-On the Season: 5.7, PG
Gleet Street: 5.8, R
Funny Face: 5.5-, PG
Son of Bitchy Virgin: 5.6, PG
Immaculate Virgin: 5.6, PG
Bitchy Virgin: 5.6, R
Unamed: 5.2, G

Climbing Season



Weather station 2.5 miles from here

30 Total Routes

['4 Stars',1],['3 Stars',8],['2 Stars',14],['1 Star',6],['Bomb',0]
['<=5.6',18],['5.7',1],['5.8',4],['5.9',4],['5.10',2],['5.11',1],['5.12',0],['5.13',0],['>=5.14',0],['',0],['<=V1',0],['V2-3',0],['V4-5',0],['V6-7',0],['V8-9',0],['V10-11',0],['V12-13',0],['>=V14',0]

The Classics

Mountain Project's determination of some of the classic, most popular, highest rated routes for f. The Guides' Wall (Madame G's):
Northern Pillar   5.4 4a 12 IV 10 VD 3c     Trad, 3 pitches, 220'   
Minty   5.4 4a 12 IV 10 VD 3c     Trad, 3 pitches, 250'   
Tipsy Trees   5.4 4a 12 IV 10 VD 3c     Trad, 3 pitches, 200'   
Southern Pillar   5.4 4a 12 IV 10 VD 3c     Trad, 2 pitches, 150'   
Beginner's Delight   5.4 4a 12 IV 10 VD 3c     Trad, 3 pitches, 250'   
Asphodel   5.5 4b 13 IV+ 11 MS 4a     Trad, 1 pitch, 120'   
Hawk   5.5 4b 13 IV+ 11 MS 4a     Trad, 3 pitches, 290'   
Triple Bulges   5.5 4b 13 IV+ 11 MS 4a     Trad, 2 pitches, 180'   
Finger Locks or Cedar Box   5.5 4b 13 IV+ 11 MS 4a     Trad, 1 pitch, 50'   
Son of Bitchy Virgin   5.6 4c 14 V 12 S 4b PG13     Trad, 2 pitches, 180'   
Madame Grunnebaum's Wulst   5.6 4c 14 V 12 S 4b     Trad, 3 pitches, 210'   
Peregrine   5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b     Trad, 3 pitches, 260'   
Mr. P's Wurst   5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c     Trad, 3 pitches, 170'   
Snooky's Return   5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c     Trad, 3 pitches   
Hyjek's Horror   5.8+ 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c R     Trad, 1 pitch, 60'   
Columbia   5.9- 5c 17 VI 16 HVS 4c     Trad, 2 pitches, 200'   
Friends and Lovers   5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a PG13     Trad, 3 pitches, 230'   
Le Teton   5.9+ 5c 17 VI 17 E1 5a     Trad, 1 pitch, 50'   
Beatle Brow Bulge   5.10- 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a     Trad, 2 pitches, 250'   
Tetonia   5.10b 6a+ 19 VII- 19 E2 5b PG13     Trad, 1 pitch, 180'   
Browse More Classics in f. The Guides' Wall (Madame G's)

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Madame Grunnebaum's Wulst 5.6 4c 14 V 12 S 4b  NY : The Gunks : ... : f. The Guides' Wall (Madame...
Madame G's rivals High Exposure closely for the title of best Gunks 5.6. While High E has "the move", Madame G's has a longer section of sweet, steep 5.6 jugs up a massive, exposed and unique orange buttress formed by large left-facing (Southern Pillar, 5.2) and right-facing (Northern Pillar, 5.4) dihedrals on either side.P1: Follow the thin crack to the tree. 5.4, 50'.P2: Traverse right into a steep left-facing dihedral, with jugs and jams. At the top, traverse right and belay on a small stance at...[more]   Browse More Classics in NY

Photos of f. The Guides' Wall (Madame G's) Slideshow Add Photo
About to rap from the top of Madame G's
About to rap from the top of Madame G's
P1 of Beginner's Delight
BETA PHOTO: P1 of Beginner's Delight
Start of Snooky's Return (5.8 variation - the 5.7 ...
BETA PHOTO: Start of Snooky's Return (5.8 variation - the 5.7 ...
The Madame G's buttress. The route ascends the mid...
BETA PHOTO: The Madame G's buttress. The route ascends the mid...
The giant dihedral of Asphodel
BETA PHOTO: The giant dihedral of Asphodel

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