f. The Guides' Wall (Madame G's)  Photos:  Recent | Best | Popular Page Views:  50,872. Good page?    Administrators:  JSH, Tom Erickson Submitted By:  JSH on Feb 26, 2011 Make this area a Favorite What's New   Print a Mini-Guide with routes Add Route  Add Photo  Add Comment  Add Event  Wed Thu Fri Sat Sun 88° | 68° 77° | 59° 68° | 41° 63° | 39° 68° | 39°

MORE INFO >>> This information is a public crowdsourcing effort between the Access Fund, and Mountain Project. You should confirm closures, restrictions, and/or related dates. Keeping climbing areas open and conserving the climbing environment Area closures MORE INFO >>> 2013 Peregrine Closure: Bloody Bush (5.7) to Overhanging Layback (5.7). This includes Arch, Ribs, Strictly, Shockley's and the Mac Wall. Best wishes to the nestlings. This information is a public crowdsourcing effort between the Access Fund, and Mountain Project. You should confirm closures, restrictions, and/or related dates. Keeping climbing areas open and conserving the climbing environment

BETA PHOTO: The Madame G's buttress. The route ascends the mid...

Along the Cliff 

last area: The Mac Wall | next area: V3 - Middle Earth

Description 

Major Features: This area features the largest collection of easy multi-pitch routes: Beginner's Delight, Minty, Hawk, Madame Grunnebaum's Wulst, and Northern Pillar, among others. For that reason, you'll often find local guides busy at work around here, especially at the short wall near the base of Finger Locks or Cedar Box.

This area starts with the huge, right-facing orange corner of Asphodel, and continues past Beginner's Delight, Snooky's Return, Minty, Hawk, and the area's centerpiece route, Madame Grunnebaum's Wulst, which aims right up the middle of the massive orange buttress. To the right, the area includes the routes just before, and in the alcove to the left of, the Mantle Block, a large block leaning against the cliff with a 4' roof extending across it.

Approach: The main approach for this area is a trail that leads right up to Minty, which you can recognize through the trees by the large blocks at its base (pic of trail will appear in the spring). Asphodel and neighboring routes can also be reached by the trail leading to Welcome to the Gunks (pic to appear in spring).

Descent: There are two major descent routes in the area: trees and bolts over Snooky's Return, and a bolted rappel line on the right side of the Madame Grunnebaum's Wulst buttress. Many routes also have intermediate tree anchors.

The bolts over Madame Grunnebaum's Wulst are a short, easy scramble down from the clifftop; they are located on the front side of a large block towards the front of the buttress itself. See the picture under the Mme G's route, which shows what you're looking for. "Back in the day", this rappel used to go from the large tree on the very front corner of the buttress, and getting into position to rappel was ... airy. Even now, it's mostly free-hanging. Two ropes will get you to the ground, or there are a second set of bolts mid-cliff for use with one rope.

Routes, left-to-right 

Asphodel: 5.5, G
Beatle Brow Bulge: 5.9+, PG
Blueberry Wine: 5.10+, R
Blueberry Ledges: 5.5-, G
Seldom Mustard, Never Relish: 5.10, G
Beginner's Delight: 5.3, PG
Octoberfest: 5.9-, R-X
Snooky's Return: 5.8, PG (**)
Friends and Lovers: 5.9, PG
Minty: 5.3, G
Bag's End: 5.8+, PG
Tipsy Trees: 5.3, G
The Womb Step: 5.7, PG
Chimango: 5.9+, PG
Hawk: 5.4+, PG
Peregrine: 5.8, PG
Reach of Faith: 5.10-, PG
Southern Pillar: 5.2, G
Columbia: 5.9-, G
Madame Grunnebaum's Wulst: 5.6, G (**)
Madame Grunnebaum's Sorrow: 5.8-, PG
Tetonia, 5.10
Le Teton: 5.9, G
Finger Locks or Cedar Box: 5.5, G
Northern Pillar: 5.2, G
Hyjek's Horror: 5.8, R
Twin Oaks: 5.3, PG
Triple Bulges: 5.5, PG
Delusions of Grandeur: 5.9+, PG
Willie's Weep: 5.2, G
Don't Shoot: 5.6, G
Lat-On the Season: 5.7, PG
Gleet Street: 5.8, R
Funny Face: 5.5-, PG
Son of Bitchy Virgin: 5.6, PG
Immaculate Virgin: 5.6, PG
Bitchy Virgin: 5.6, R
Unamed: 5.2, G

The Classics

Featured Route For f. The Guides' Wall (Madame G's)

Beginner's Delight 5.4  NY : The Gunks : ... : f. The Guides' Wall (Madame...

My personal favorite at this grade. Often very busy though.Start left of Minty: from where the trail hits the cliff, walk about 50' left past the thin crack of Snooky's Return to an obvious right-leaning crack.P1: Either climb the crack (harder) or corners just left to a ledge. Continue up and step right and then up to a good belay (even with the top of Snooky's). 5.3, 75'. It's possible to walk right to the rap anchor there if you need to descend.P2: Climb up the big corner above. Abo...[more]   Browse More Classics in NY

Photos of f. The Guides' Wall (Madame G's) Slideshow

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BETA PHOTO: The giant dihedral of Asphodel	BETA PHOTO: P1 of Beginner's Delight	BETA PHOTO: Start of Snooky's Return (5.8 variation - the 5.7 ...
BETA PHOTO: The first pitch of Columbia, which follows the obv...	About to rap from the top of Madame G's