F* *king the Dog 5.10d
| 1,059 page views
Good page? (1 like)   |
| Type: | Sport, 1 pitch, 50 feet |
| Consensus: | 5.11a [details] |
| FA: | ?? |
| Submitted By: | Chris Duca on Apr 24, 2007 |
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Ara Finlayson locked into the sequence...
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Description If this route could only continue for another 100 feet!! In just 50 short feet, this route packs a collective punch. It commences with an undercling move off a shark tooth feature, then some strenuous crack climbing, followed by a balancy traverse left, thin and technical face climbing and one final move to, and then out of, a pocket that guards the chain anchors.
It is very easy to become addicted to this route's exquisite flow!
Location Locate the unmistakeable arete and roof of Dog Biscuit. F**king the Dog starts on an easy slab below a vertical face just to the right.
Protection 5 bolts.
Finding a quick rest...
Photo by Liam Griffin
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Jakob taking advantage of a "convenient pocket"
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| Comments on F* *king the Dog |
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By Chris Duca
Administrator
From: Hinesburg, Vermont
Apr 24, 2007
| I wasn't sure who the first ascent party was, so if someone knows, please post it. Thanks! |
By M Sprague
Administrator
From: New England
Apr 17, 2009
| Ted Hammond lead it first, if I remember right, on gear and pins. When I cleaned it and retroed it(with permission), it became a little easier as a chunk came out and made the pocket like hold near the top.
Nice and surprisingly pumpy face climbing. Just wish it kept going |
By Jeffrey LeCours
From: New Hampshire
May 2, 2010
| Really enjoyable climb with technical footwork up top. |
By S. Neoh
Jun 19, 2010
rating: 5.11a
| Very good route.
Felt more challenging than Big Angler (11a route to the right of this one), Tool Time (10d up at Pulse crag), and Debbie (11a down at Lower New Wave).
Small holds; bring your best technique. |
By Rhiannon
Jul 31, 2010
| New book says 11.a! |
By S. Neoh
Jul 31, 2010
rating: 5.11a
| Yes, IMHO, 11a for this route is consistent with current grading for Big Angler, Tool Time, and Debbie does CPR. 2.5 stars. |
By GarrettM
From: bedford, nh
Oct 11, 2010
| i also thought it was harder than the 11a to the right. loved the last cruxy moves next to the chains. Mike Z onsited this by staying right and sprinting up it. |
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