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Eyetooth
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Eyetooth T 

Eyetooth 

YDS: 5.8 French: 5b Ewbanks: 16 UIAA: VI- ZA: 15 British: HVS 4c

   
Type:  Trad, 2 pitches, 150'
Consensus:  YDS: 5.8 French: 5b Ewbanks: 16 UIAA: VI- ZA: 15 British: HVS 4c [details]
FA: Bob Kamps, Mark and Beverly Powell
Page Views: 5,109
Submitted By: Kevin Fons on Jan 1, 2002

You & This Route  |  Other Opinions (16)
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Eyetooth from the top of first pitch of East Grues...

Description 

Walk around the front of Eyetooth to enter the Chimney on the Southeast side (separating the main mass from the large outer "flake"). Climb easily up to the top of the chimney and belay on the South West Shoulder at the crack leading up and left.Follow the Obvious Crack up and left on to the South West side of the spire. There is a fixed pin in the crack up high if I remember correctly. Move up out of the crack and right onto the south face to clip a big new bolt (better than the scary old nail that used to stick out of the face). The angle eases off on the face and the climbing changes completely. The face is very small crystals which you friction and smear on adn palm a few holds (really cool). Climb up to the beefy 2 bolt anchor and belay. A double rope rappel brings you to the base of the route. Classic Needles must do with good gear, fun climbing and good exposure on one of the coolest spires in the Needles.


Protection 

Standard rack, fixed gear.



Photos of Eyetooth Slideshow Add Photo
Another shot near the top of Eyetooth.
Another shot near the top of Eyetooth.
Jay coming up the Eyetooth.  May 09.
Jay coming up the Eyetooth. May 09.
High up on Eyetooth.
High up on Eyetooth.
Trying to figure out how to best traverse over to the belay ledge...  Actually this turned out to be a very nice, well protected, fun to climb way to get up there.  Alas we were forced down after getting to the ledge by a setting sun and weak dispositions.  Next year...  Photo Aaron Costello.
Trying to figure out how to best traverse over to ...
Eyetooth from the top of Spire 4.
Eyetooth from the top of Spire 4.
The view of eyetooth while rappeling from Spire 4
BETA PHOTO: The view of eyetooth while rappeling from Spire 4
Approximate Route
BETA PHOTO: Approximate Route
Eyetooth from downhill in the Spire Four-Five gully.
BETA PHOTO: Eyetooth from downhill in the Spire Four-Five gull...
I guess this will work, let's see where it goes...  The Piana guide left a little to the imagination.  Photo Aaron Costello.
I guess this will work, let's see where it goes......
Eyetooth from atop Spire 4.
Eyetooth from atop Spire 4.
View behind Eyetooth from the top.  May 09.
View behind Eyetooth from the top. May 09.
A little different view of Eyetooth from the summit of Spire Five.  Spire Four and South Tower stand tall next to Eyetooth.
BETA PHOTO: A little different view of Eyetooth from the summi...
Jay on top.  May 09.
Jay on top. May 09.
Eyetooth on the left taken from the Picket Fence area.
Eyetooth on the left taken from the Picket Fence a...
5.7 handcrack start, fun climbing with great gear. Plumb line with summit allow for a one pitch climb with minimal rope drag.
5.7 handcrack start, fun climbing with great gear....
Is this it???  I didn't really want to "climb" that dirty gulley over to the left to the belay ledge...  Photo Aaron Costello.
Is this it??? I didn't really want to "climb" tha...
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Comments on Eyetooth Add Comment
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By Shawn P. Tracy
Jun 25, 2004
rating: 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a

Gear Alert

Another classic route. It reminded me of the Sierra Nevada due to it's rock and alpine flavor. We did it as one LONG pitch with double ropes, but I did experience some nasty rope drag on the upper friction face. On the presumably original line, you will achieve the "shoulder" as stated in the above description (more of a ledge and the begining of the nice face), run up a great layback flake (runout above the ledge, traverse left to a fold with a pin in it (manky), continue up and left to knobs, traverse to west side where another old manky pin can be found, then above and right (south face again) to the last face passing two new bomber bolts to the anchor. You can find an RP placement between the two old pins and maybe sling a couple knobs as well. Bring one set of nuts, medium sized cams, a few RPs, and lots of slings (including several shoulder length). Avoid a loose death block about 40 feet up and next to the first layback area (if you end up starting where I did that is...).

By Eric Krantz
From: Black Hills
Jul 18, 2006
rating: 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a R

On the SW (Tusk) side of Eyetooth, a nice 5.6 (?) crack leads up to the ledge, and can set a belay there. Full rack.

Anchor bolt on the right is loose. Not just the hanger but the bolt itself wobbles.

This is a scary lead, the pins (especially the first) do not inspire confidence. My partner and I agreed that if the first pin was removed it might leave room for a nice alien placement.

eric

By Chris treggE
Administrator
From: Madison, WI
Jun 2, 2009

Anyone have beta on the route most people take? We missed the first piton by climbing up the twin crack system to the left of the belay ledge, but felt harder than 5.8. We climbed directly up from below the climber here but on the rappel we saw the first piton we had missed by going the way we did. If most people clip that one, it looks like you would need to start on the huge layback flake to the right of the belay ledge at the top of the gulley. In any case, great route, no matter how you get up. The twin cracks protect reasonably well, but going that way you miss a pin, FWIW. You can do the route with one 60m rope, split into 2 pitches, first pitch ends at the top of the gulley at the belay/rappel horn. However if you get your rope stuck when you pull it on the second pitch you might wish you had 2 ropes.

By Tim McCabe
Feb 1, 2011

Not surprising that the bolts on the summit have loosed up. The rock up there is as I recall very grainy. Almost like the hole top is exfoliated (like there are micro air pockets).

Are the old pins still up top. The old rap off of 2 pins in behind a very exfoliated flake never inspired confidence. I always brought along a big sling for the summit as a backup anchor.

Then I would send everyone else down with the backup in place. I figured if the pins had just held the other guy I could expect to live also.

By Joe Brannan
From: Erie, CO
Aug 5, 2012

The approach was cool and the position was good, but the climbing on this was very mediocre. P1 is a class 4 chimney with a bit of either more chimney or a barb flake to finish. P2 starts from a platform below a dirty crack (committing move to get established above the belay) and only turns into good climbing (and only 20 feet of it) once on the crystal encrusted face above. I'm glad to have climbed it, but expected far more from a 4 star rated climb.

After reading comments above, I we definitely climbed the twin cracks Chris mentions. Stick to the flake and maybe its 5.8 and a better climb.

By Wilson On The Drums
From: Woodbury, MN
Jun 20, 2013

apparently can be done one of two ways. one being the original route 5.8+ and the other being 9+ if not 10. it looks like the original route goes straight up a layback flake, this will bring you to the first piton. the way we took was pretty far left and climbed a shoulder with an actual crack, not a flake. the moves were hard and the gear wasnt the best but it was all there and was really enjoyable. done this way you'll miss the first piton and end up at the second piton where you then will join the route and finish heading up the slab past the 2 bolts. fun moves and a great climb. wouldnt be a bad idea to bring doubles of larger bd cams 2,3,4 b/c the belay takes bigger gear and the layback flake would protect well with those sizes.

By Robbie Freidel
From: The Needles of South Dakota
Jul 3, 2013

BETA. as far as the first pin goes, the twin cracks is the original route. the pin is even further left then what you climb up, so anyone who missed the pin still probably went up the riginal route just didnt traverse far enough to see the pin. After going up the easy flake/ crack to a good stance with three cracks in your face, Keep moving left. like 5 feet at least. its further over than you would expect and hidden. As far as the 5.10 variation goes. i dont know of anyone who has climbed it. it is really run out, hard, and sustained. it goes straight up that steep thin crack as apposed to moving left towards the pin. i only know of one person who screwed up bad enough to try it and took a far larger whip than desireable. hope it helps. anyone else have any insight?