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 ADVANCED
Indecent Exposure
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Eyes Without a Face 

YDS: 5.10c French: 6b Ewbanks: 20 UIAA: VII ZA: 20 British: E2 5b PG13

   
Type:  Sport
Consensus:  YDS: 5.10+ French: 6b+ Ewbanks: 21 UIAA: VII+ ZA: 20 British: E3 5b [details]
FA: Joel M.
Page Views: 241
Submitted By: Jon Marek on Mar 28, 2012

You & This Route  |  Other Opinions (6)
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Description 

Begin by scrambling to the top of a chossy platform about 15 feet up, clip the first bolt and begin climbing on the arete and left face. Difficult climbing through hard to read sequences, technical crux is probably the first three bolts but the top gets the pump going after a decent rest at the half-way mark. The guidebook says this is a 10b and that it is a good warm-up, I disagree on both counts. Hard to clip, hard to rest, hard to read, HARD.


Location 

Two routes left of the wonderful Tasting Time. Look for the sign.


Protection 

Bolts. Beware! The first second and third bolts could be tricky to clip with very poor feet, if you fell at the wrong spots you could hit the large ledge at the first bolt.



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By Brent Larsen
From: Spearfish, SD
Jun 25, 2012

This is a great route that is probably being overlooked due to its weird location. The rock is clean, the moves are hard, and it is a very difficult onsight for the inexperienced five ten climber who might not have attained a certain level of strength. I don't think it deserves a PG-13 rating unless, of course, you are completely inexperienced as a leader or you have a belayer who has no idea what they are doing. I'm sorry I got the ball rolling in that direction for this area since I described a few of the climbs here with that label. PG-13 is a construct meant to make people realize that a higher level of competancy is needed for leaders that attempt the climb. What I meant to convey was the fact that the potential for injury might be a bit higher at Indecent Exposure than some other places if you are a complete beginner or have only been climbing five ten for a little while and have had no real experience at taking falls or dealing with run outs. Intermediate level climbers with experience and confidence in their abilities should not be scared away. Leaders and belayers who are competant with falling and dealing with some common sense safety issues should have no problems at this area.

By Jon Marek
From: SLC
Nov 19, 2012

I have to disagree with you Brent. The grade for this route is well within my abilities and I am very familiar with the grade in spearfish, I did after all on-sight this climb.

That being said the moves are hard with bad feet right off the (SUPER CHOSSY) ledge and the bolts are far from easy to clip (read: awkward), and as I said falling awkwardly or while clipping in the first few bolts is almost guaranteed to land you on the ledge (broken ankle anyone?). My rating of PG-13 was not influenced by you or anyone else. Of course the idea of PG-13 varies from person to person but I think it is a fair description of the route.

This route could be a dangerous on-sight for any leader. In fact I am a little peeved that you would say this only applies for the "completely inexperienced" and belayers who have "no idea what they are doing". Certainly this route is more sketchy for the grade than Basecamp (one of your pg-13 ratings, to account for the 4th class section I assume). It's not like I'm just throwing these grades out willy-nilly (this is the only route I have given the rating to) but if you expect people to believe this route is the same difficulty as any other 10b in Indecent than you are bonkers. This route is much harder than the other 10b and the dangerous section is also the most difficult (clipping is the crux).