Eyes of the World starts with the first section of Edge of Fright's
second pitch. At the horizontal where Edge of Fright
goes left, step up and right into the obvious, dis-continuous crack system. Piece together the puzzle, stepping back and forth between Poe's rightmost cracks and the next crack to the left. A 3.5 or 4 cam may help protect the initial section, although we didn't have any of those on the FA.
The crux is probably where the first discontinuous crack section ends and forces you to reach left with a committing move above good gear. Have a finger-size piece ready to place. Switch back to the right crack near the top and then continue to the Mississippi Half Step
This is dedicated to Steve Dieckhoff. He and I hunted around for a new route on the right side of Poe in the early '90s, getting shut down on what is now Prequel to the Sequel
(nice job on that FA!). We never completed a new route, so when Prequel
was recently climbed, I decided to go have another look.
If anyone knows if this has been done previously (Noel? Olaf? Rufus?), then I will edit the FA. It would be nice to keep the Grateful Dead theme alive on Poe Buttress. RIP, Steve.
Basically the same as Edge of Fright
, with the addition of a 3.5 or 4 cam. A 70m rope with some extra long runners or double ropes is recommended.
Crossing over from the rightmost crack system to t...
Classic Steve Dieckhoff cartoon. His website is s...
Step right where Edge of Fright goes left, then it...
Oct 24, 2013
Nice work, Mike! Must be the one you told me about
I was livin' it up in Bishop CA eating 3 catered meals a day, all while you were up there hoping the runouts didn't turn you into a catered rock meal. ;)