Eyes of Amber (aka Chivalry's not Dead) 5.7
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| Type: | Trad, 1 pitch, 70 feet |
| Consensus: | 5.8- [details] |
| FA: | Alan Nelson, 3/87 (solo), bolted by - Louie Anderson & Bob Bealle, April 1989 |
| Submitted By: | Mark J. Nelson on Oct 29, 2002 |
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BETA PHOTO: Indian Palisades Corridor
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Description Locate Water Moccasin (5.7); this is the well-bolted, left-arching friction route climbing the right edge of the brown section of the wall.
Eyes of Amber climbs past two bolts and a long runout, optionally protected with small trad gear, to the obvious ledge and tree.
A 50m rope is plenty to get you back to the ground, but the tree is on the small side of confidence-inspiring for a rappel anchor.
Vogel describes two routes (Chivalry's Not Dead, 5.7 and Snakes in the Grass, 5.9) in between Eyes of Amber and Water Moccasin. Neither route showed evidence of bolts or chalk. In fact, this description MIGHT be for Chivalry's Not Dead, but that just makes Eyes of Amber more ambiguous.
Protection Two bolts and some smallish trad gear.
| Comments on Eyes of Amber (aka Chivalry's not Dead) |
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By Mark J. Nelson
Jan 13, 2003
| I'm pretty sure this is aka "Chivalry's Not Dead." |
By shelby beardslee
From: 29 Palms, CA
Mar 7, 2011
| Climbed today and there are 4 bolts. Felt like 5.9 on the direct version and easy 5.7 if you traverse in from the right. Its a little run out at the top but nice and juggy with positive holds. The chains of top which are shared by two other bolted routes have been replaced. |
By Dietrich Belitz
May 11, 2011
| I don't think this is the same as Chivalry. I climbed them all on 5/4/11, and Donno's beta photo has it right; there are four routes on the dark part of the wall left of Harrell-Turner. Accepting the names in Vogel's book (as the beta photo does), they are, from left to right:
Eyes of Amber 5.7 if one traverses in from the right, or harder with the direct start
Chivalry's Not Dead 5.7
Snakes in the Grass 5.9
Water Moccasin 5.7 (Vogel's 5.4 rating is a sandbag) |
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