Type: | Boulder, 16 ft (5 m) |
FA: | Travis Russell |
Page Views: | 1,145 total · 12/month |
Shared By: | Travis Russell on Mar 29, 2016 |
Admins: | Aeon Aki, Andrew Gram, Nathan Fisher, Perin Blanchard, GRK, D C |
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Access Issue: Don't climb on wet rock!
Details
Attention:
Don't climb on wet rock! Sandstone is a porous rock type that can absorb a lot of water. It can lose up to 75% of its strength while wet, making it easy to snap off holds and irreparably damage classic climbs. Wait 48 to 72hrs after precipitation. If the ground is still damp then the rock is still wet. A great way to check for precipitation history before traveling to Joe's is to go to this site-
climate.usu.edu/mchd/dashbo…
and under "Data Charts" click the "Precipitation" tab. Make sure the surface wetness is 0 before climbing.
Don't climb on wet rock! Sandstone is a porous rock type that can absorb a lot of water. It can lose up to 75% of its strength while wet, making it easy to snap off holds and irreparably damage classic climbs. Wait 48 to 72hrs after precipitation. If the ground is still damp then the rock is still wet. A great way to check for precipitation history before traveling to Joe's is to go to this site-
climate.usu.edu/mchd/dashbo…
and under "Data Charts" click the "Precipitation" tab. Make sure the surface wetness is 0 before climbing.
Description
Start to the left of walrus with your left hand in a pocket on the blunt arete and your right on a small crimp above you. The crux is definitely the start and will be harder for a taller climber. This boulder is big and there is a tree and a rock to contend with so could be scary without enough pads. Pull the start using either brute strength and tenacity, or with a heel hook on the left hand start hold. There is an open pinch on the arete as well as a small in-cut pocket if you can get to it. Angle up and right bisecting the face with good technique, use the jug if you need to rest, otherwise catch the good crimp, throw for the rail, and keep the feet on with some mindful smearing. Top out on the highest point of the boulder with the right hand and maybe a foot on the nice arete. Don't worry the worst is below you, you'll make it, just don't let got or it could hurt. I tried to start as Walrus starts with both hand on an undercling deep underneath, but could not find a way to shift left and up once out of overhang, It is possible, I'm just not strong enough, probably goes at V9 or 10.
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