|538 page views|
This is actually an OK route, and there's almost never anyone on it.
Climb the crack (crux) to a horizontal and stance, then continue up the face via the path of least resistance (straight, actually; slightly runout, but fairly easy) to a horizontal just below some overhangs. Traverse right a few feet to a flake system(optional belay). Climb the flake to another horizontal, then traverse right along a crack about 15 feet to a left-facing corner topped by another overhang. Climb the crack, passing the overhang and up the face to the top.
Descend using the Uberfall Descent, to climber's right.
In the Uberfall area, at a 10-foot high crack about 20 feet right of Nosedive.
Standard Gunks Rack.
Jul 11, 2010
One of many routes that the Swain guide gets totally wrong. Follow those directions and you'll be in scary 5.9 territory at the long overhang.
Jul 12, 2010
Mike, I climbed this route once a few years ago, but I these directions seemed reasonable for what I remember - basically, climb up below the big roof, then keep heading right and up by the line of least resistance. Can you provide some supplemental text ... ?
Edit add - just reclimbed this yesterday, and these directions are right ...