Eye of the Potato 5.10 R
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| Type: | Trad, TR, 1 pitch, 70 feet |
| Consensus: | 5.10a/b [details] |
| FA: | Bruce Miller, Kent McClannan, 2009 |
| Submitted By: | Mark Roth on Apr 28, 2011 |
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BETA PHOTO: The route follows the small dihedral near the cent...
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Description This route has some great moves on cool, featured rock. The protection on the other hand was uninspiring. Let's just say I'm glad I top-roped it! Pull big, rotten jugs above the little cave. Awkward stemming gets you through the crux dihedral. More stemming leads to the upper bulge which can be climbed multiple ways all without much pro....
Location This is on the buttress below the Potato Chip. Right in the center of the wall there are some nice looking seams. This is the one right above a little cave.
Protection SR including RPs, micro cams, maybe Ballnuts.
Moving over the roof is the first difficult move. ...
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The upper half is fun and juggy. Here there is ge...
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| Comments on Eye of the Potato |
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By Tony B
From: Around Boulder, CO
May 28, 2011
rating: 5.9+ R
| You can place junk in a horizontal before the roof that might keep your spine and head off the ground, then pull the roof (secure holds, but technical) and go up flat holds to a flake on the left that takes a bad small wire or bad small cam, then up a few more moves to when the real gear starts. It's honestly not as hard as 'Don't Peel' but lacks the good pro right before the crux, so mentally this one is harder.
2.5 stars- the best of the 8 routes low on the buttress. |
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