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The Cauldrons
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Eye of the Newt 

Eye of the Newt 

YDS: 5.10 French: 6b Ewbanks: 20 UIAA: VII- British: E2 5b

   
Type:  Trad, 2 pitches, 250', Grade II
Consensus:  YDS: 5.10b/c French: 6b Ewbanks: 20 UIAA: VII British: E2 5b [details]
FA: James Fusten, Mike Wood, and Davin Lindy
Page Views: 1,048
Submitted By: Brad Brandewie on Jul 31, 2009
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You & This Route  |  Other Opinions (7)
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Matt Pickren in the stem-box on the first pitch of...

Description 

This route follows the obvious crack system on the sw side of the tower and finishes in the notch between the twin summits.

The climbing is engaging and stays on solid rock for the most part. The two belays are bolted.

Pitch One - Follow a right facing corner system past a big ledge and through a fun stem-box. Continue to the base of a low-angle v-slot below a large roof. 5.10

Pitch Two - Follow the crack out and over the roof and continue to the notch passing some loose rock near the top. 5.10


Location 

See map on Hell Roaring Canyon Page.


Protection 

2 sets of cams to 3 Camalot
1 set of nuts
A couple long runners



Photos of Eye of the Newt Slideshow Add Photo
Matt above the roof on the second pitch.
Matt above the roof on the second pitch.
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By Sam Lightner, Jr.
From: Lander, WY
Nov 1, 2009

I would take a few extra hand size pieces. The roof pitch felt 10+ to me simply because of the silt on one wall. Its a great climb and if it weren't so remote people would do it all the time.

By drewford
From: Wasatch Back, UT
Nov 14, 2010
rating: 5.10+ 6b+ 21 VII+ E3 5b

I have to agree with Sam. I'd give the second pitch 10d. I would also augment the rack recommendation with triples on #1, 2 and 3 camalots. Your mileage may vary.

By Alexander Nees
From: Grand Junction, CO
Dec 20, 2011
rating: 5.10 6b 20 VII- E2 5b

Outstanding route! Why this one is not in at least one of the various "Classics" guidebooks is a mystery to me. Beautiful setting, nice line, mostly good rock, great climbing. Its not as remote as many other climbs that people do all the time (it takes longer to get to Jah Man!) Rack: double set with 3x 1C4 and 3x 2C4, and one each 3 and 4 C4s. Nuts not needed.

By Alison Conrad
Apr 2, 2013

My partner and I agreed that this ranks as one of our top tower routes. We did it in three pitches. Short approach pitch, about 5.7 ish and the next 2 are about 5.10c. Varied and clean rock. Took us a while to find the route and the rap bolts to the basin. Super fun. Double rope rappel. The second rappel is where you need the doubles.