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The Cauldrons
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Eye of the Newt T 

Eye of the Newt 

YDS: 5.10 French: 6b Ewbanks: 20 UIAA: VII- ZA: 19 British: E2 5b

   
Type:  Trad, 2 pitches, 250', Grade II
Consensus:  YDS: 5.10 French: 6b Ewbanks: 20 UIAA: VII- ZA: 19 British: E2 5b [details]
FA: James Fusten, Mike Wood, and Davin Lindy
Page Views: 1,133
Submitted By: Brad Brandewie on Jul 31, 2009

You & This Route  |  Other Opinions (7)
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Matt Pickren in the stem-box on the first pitch of...

Description 

This route follows the obvious crack system on the sw side of the tower and finishes in the notch between the twin summits.

The climbing is engaging and stays on solid rock for the most part. The two belays are bolted.

Pitch One - Follow a right facing corner system past a big ledge and through a fun stem-box. Continue to the base of a low-angle v-slot below a large roof. 5.10

Pitch Two - Follow the crack out and over the roof and continue to the notch passing some loose rock near the top. 5.10


Location 

See map on Hell Roaring Canyon Page.


Protection 

2 sets of cams to 3 Camalot
1 set of nuts
A couple long runners



Photos of Eye of the Newt Slideshow Add Photo
Matt above the roof on the second pitch.
Matt above the roof on the second pitch.
Comments on Eye of the Newt Add Comment
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By Sam Lightner, Jr.
From: Lander, WY
Nov 1, 2009

I would take a few extra hand size pieces. The roof pitch felt 10+ to me simply because of the silt on one wall. Its a great climb and if it weren't so remote people would do it all the time.

By drewford
From: Wasatch Back, UT
Nov 14, 2010
rating: 5.10+ 6b+ 21 VII+ 20 E3 5b

I have to agree with Sam. I'd give the second pitch 10d. I would also augment the rack recommendation with triples on #1, 2 and 3 camalots. Your mileage may vary.

By Alexander Nees
From: Grand Junction, CO
Dec 20, 2011
rating: 5.10 6b 20 VII- 19 E2 5b

Outstanding route! Why this one is not in at least one of the various "Classics" guidebooks is a mystery to me. Beautiful setting, nice line, mostly good rock, great climbing. Its not as remote as many other climbs that people do all the time (it takes longer to get to Jah Man!) Rack: double set with 3x 1C4 and 3x 2C4, and one each 3 and 4 C4s. Nuts not needed.

By Alison Conrad
Apr 2, 2013

My partner and I agreed that this ranks as one of our top tower routes. We did it in three pitches. Short approach pitch, about 5.7 ish and the next 2 are about 5.10c. Varied and clean rock. Took us a while to find the route and the rap bolts to the basin. Super fun. Double rope rappel. The second rappel is where you need the doubles.

By Wally
From: Denver
Apr 22, 2014

Great route, and solid beta above.

I agree with Alison - doing the route in three pitches makes sense, since there is a nice and big ledge 50 feet up or so. And yes, two ropes needed to descend from the first set of anchors. The first set of anchors is high up, about 35 meters above the big ledge 50 feet off the deck.

Regarding the rack, I morphed between Drewford's three #3s and Alexander's one #3 recommendation.

My suggested rack - two sets of cams, from green Aliens to #3 camalots, with 3 sets of #1 and #2 camalots, 2 #3 camalots, and 1 #4 camalot. Don't skimp on the small cams. The two green Aliens (or similar sized cams) are the only cams that will protect the first 20 feet or so of the stem box. The chimneying there is secure enough that you can bump up your gear as you stem along. There are also some other thin cracks on the first pitch that the two sets of small cams will be appreciated. I agree with Alexander, nuts not needed.

In the Cauldrons description, the comment that this route can be climbed in "an hour or two" might be sandbagged. For a 5.10/5.11 crack climber such as myself, with a 5.9/5.10 crack climber partner, this climb took substantially longer than "an hour or two".

Eye of the Newt is an awesome route. Very sustained at the 5.10 level. And yeah, that second pitch is burly, 10d certainly.