Eye of the Eagle
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Blocky climbing and a short hand crack are prelude to an intimidating four foot roof. The crux roof is wide jams and some interesting footwork. There are several ways to tackle it, but choose wisely.
The rest of the climb is fairly sustained throughout the striking arc of the left leaning fingers to hand crack that follows. There is an off-width pod and a bit of face climbing to negotiate before the anchors, but the grade lightens up quite a bit at this point.
There is a 10c variation that comes in from the left and takes a large flake to a right leaning crack before merging with the upper section. It is pretty fun but may be best to toprope since there is still a lot of cleaning up to do and some doubt as to how solidly some of the features - especially the rope eating flake you use for much of the beginning - are attached to the climb. In fact, the alarm clock-sized block I managed to dislodge in passing wasn't attached too well at all!
As a side note, Eye of the Eagle is more than a bit soft at the 11c it is listed at in Supertopo and in comparison to nearby climbs. Or, maybe Spacewalk is just too damned sandbagged!
The far end of Eagle Creek Cliff. Just look for the big roof.
Doubles of Small - 3" cams, Rap anchor
BETA PHOTO: The roof is just insane fun. An obscure Tahoe cla...
|Comments on Eye of the Eagle
|By Colonel Mustard|
From: Reno, NV
Oct 4, 2013
Suggested internal sending song:
It's the eye of the eagle
It's the thrill of the climb
Rising up to the challenge of our rival
And the last known survivor
Stalks his prey in the night
And he's watching us all with the eye of the eagle
Durp! Durp!Durp!Durp! Durp!Durp!Durp! Durp!Durp!Duuuuuurp!