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Eagle Creek Cliff
Routes Sorted
L to R R to L Alpha
Bad Perception T 
Between Two Worlds T 
Black Ice T 
Eye of the Eagle T 
Here and Now T 
Liquid Shadows T 
Poop Chute, The T 

Eye of the Eagle 

YDS: 5.11a French: 6c Ewbanks: 22 UIAA: VII+ ZA: 22 British: E3 5c

   
Type:  Trad, 1 pitch, 60'
Consensus:  YDS: 5.11a French: 6c Ewbanks: 22 UIAA: VII+ ZA: 22 British: E3 5c [details]
FA: Chris McNamara, Eric Volz, Brian Cork, 9/03
Page Views: 658
Submitted By: Colonel Mustard on Sep 15, 2011

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BETA PHOTO: The roof is just insane fun. An obscure Tahoe cla...

Description 

Blocky climbing and a short hand crack are prelude to an intimidating four foot roof. The crux roof is wide jams and some interesting footwork. There are several ways to tackle it, but choose wisely.

The rest of the climb is fairly sustained throughout the striking arc of the left leaning fingers to hand crack that follows. There is an off-width pod and a bit of face climbing to negotiate before the anchors, but the grade lightens up quite a bit at this point.

There is a 10c variation that comes in from the left and takes a large flake to a right leaning crack before merging with the upper section. It is pretty fun but may be best to toprope since there is still a lot of cleaning up to do and some doubt as to how solidly some of the features - especially the rope eating flake you use for much of the beginning - are attached to the climb. In fact, the alarm clock-sized block I managed to dislodge in passing wasn't attached too well at all!

As a side note, Eye of the Eagle is more than a bit soft at the 11c it is listed at in Supertopo and in comparison to nearby climbs. Or, maybe Spacewalk is just too damned sandbagged!

Location 

The far end of Eagle Creek Cliff. Just look for the big roof.

Protection 

Doubles of Small - 3" cams, Rap anchor


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