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Behind The Sun S 
Billy S 
Billy the Kid S 
Challenger S 
Eye of the Beholder T 
Garrett's Revenge S 
Gneiss Roof (AKA: Nice Ride) T 
Gneiss Route S 
Ground Control to Gumby One S 
It's Not You, It's Me T 
Ride The Snake T 
Rocketman S 
Three Points of Contact S 
Wild Child S 
Unsorted Routes:

Eye of the Beholder 

YDS: 5.10c French: 6b Ewbanks: 20 UIAA: VII ZA: 20 British: E2 5b

   
Type:  Trad, 4 pitches, 320'
Original:  YDS: 5.10c French: 6b Ewbanks: 20 UIAA: VII ZA: 20 British: E2 5b [details]
FA: Greg Miller, Steve Johnson
New Route: Yes
Page Views: 1,224
Submitted By: gregsmiller on Aug 5, 2013

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P.3.

Raptor Closures / Upper Canyon Road closures MORE INFO >>>

Description 

This route has some variety when it comes to the different styles of climbing on it.

P1. Do bouldery moves off the ground, heading for a shallow, left-facing corner(crux) (bolt). Continue up the face to a small, black overhang. Pull over this and establish below the face, stepping left making thin moves. Climb up black ledgy terrain below roof. Climb up and right to a bolt in the roof and pull onto the ledge (crux). Continue up orange rock getting on lower angled rock to the last bolt on Wild Child, 5.10c, 140 feet. Best to use long runners on all bolts after the first crux to avoid rope drag.

  • *This pitch was originally led all on gear, it is now fully bolted. Bring plenty extendable runners. There are about 14 bolts total.

P2. Climb the first 7 bolts of Wild Child's third pitch. Once at the 7th bolt, look right for the pitch 3 anchor below dihedral. Traverse right along narrow ledge (5.easy) placing gear along the way. Long runners are helpful, 5.9, 70 feet. Cams: 0.75-#3 help protect the traverse to the anchor.

P3. Awesome stemming up past 5 bolts in the corner above, followed by a wild top out onto belay ledge. (The 5th bolt is in the overhang almost behind you, gives protection at your waist as you mantle and keeps rope away from flake), 5.10c, 50 feet.

P4. Climb the obvious, steep hand/offwidth crack above passing a large chockstone. Follow a thin crack above, stepping left and up the face. #5 & #6 (optional) Camalots are helpful, 5.10a/b, 60 feet.

Variation 1 to P4 - finish on the last pitch of Wild Child.

Variation 2 to P4 - climb the first 3 bolts on Wild Child's last pitch, but continue up and left up the corner, then stepping left at the chockstone and thin crack on E.O.B. (this skips the greasy, bird poop offwidth and allows you to climb the whole thing with single set of cams to #3).

Location 

Start: begin just uphill from Wild Child and left of Challenger at an obvious V notch above an overhang.

Descent: rappel down Wild Child or walk off.

It is also possible to reach the 3rd pitch dihedral by climbing the first 3 pitches of Wild Child then rapping down to the anchor at the base of the dihedral.

Protection 

P1. 14 bolts (?), many long runners.

P2. Many long runners, #0.75 - #3 Camalot.

P3. 5 quickdraws.

P4. SR-#4 optional #5.

One may also do P3 of Wild Child , and rap into p.3 of E.O.B if you only have quickdraws.


Photos of Eye of the Beholder Slideshow Add Photo
Rock Climbing Photo: P1 before the bolts were added.
P1 before the bolts were added.
Rock Climbing Photo: P4.
P4.
Rock Climbing Photo: SJ coming up the last slab on P1.
SJ coming up the last slab on P1.
Rock Climbing Photo: Jason Haas and Tony Bubb on P3.
Jason Haas and Tony Bubb on P3.
Rock Climbing Photo: P2.
P2.
Rock Climbing Photo: Jason Haas on p.1.
Jason Haas on p.1.
Rock Climbing Photo: P2 traverse after leaving W.C. at the 5th bolt.
P2 traverse after leaving W.C. at the 5th bolt.
Rock Climbing Photo: Tony Bubb past the wideness on p.4 finishing the s...
Tony Bubb past the wideness on p.4 finishing the s...
Rock Climbing Photo: P3 dihedral.
P3 dihedral.
Rock Climbing Photo: Route topo. Wild Child is the left line, Eye of th...
BETA PHOTO: Route topo. Wild Child is the left line, Eye of th...
Rock Climbing Photo: P3.
P3.
Rock Climbing Photo: General protection bolt locations in green.
BETA PHOTO: General protection bolt locations in green.
Rock Climbing Photo: P3.
P3.
Rock Climbing Photo: Jason on P3.
Jason on P3.
Rock Climbing Photo: P3.
P3.
Rock Climbing Photo: Jason about to commit to the mantle.
Jason about to commit to the mantle.
Rock Climbing Photo: P3.
P3.
Rock Climbing Photo: Jason Haas on P1.
Jason Haas on P1.
Rock Climbing Photo: P4.
P4.
Rock Climbing Photo: Tony Bubb on P4.
Tony Bubb on P4.

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