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Behind The Sun S 
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Eye of the Beholder T 
Garrett's Revenge S 
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Wild Child S 
Unsorted Routes:

Eye of the Beholder 

YDS: 5.10- French: 6a Ewbanks: 18 UIAA: VI+ ZA: 18 British: E1 5a

   
Type:  Trad, 4 pitches, 320'
Original:  YDS: 5.10- French: 6a Ewbanks: 18 UIAA: VI+ ZA: 18 British: E1 5a [details]
FA: Greg Miller, Steve Johnson
New Route: Yes
Page Views: 1,488
Submitted By: gregsmiller on Aug 5, 2013

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Jason on P3.

Raptor Closures - 2016 Tunnel 2 Closure Lifted / Upper Canyon Road closures MORE INFO >>>

Description 

This route has some variety when it comes to the different styles of climbing on it.

P1. Do bouldery moves off the ground, heading for a shallow, left-facing corner(crux) (bolt). Continue up the face to a small, black overhang. Pull over this and establish below the face, stepping left making thin moves. Climb up black ledgy terrain below roof. Climb up and right to a bolt in the roof and pull onto the ledge (crux). Continue up orange rock getting on lower angled rock to the last bolt on Wild Child, 5.10-, 140 feet. Best to use long runners on all bolts after the first crux to avoid rope drag.

  • *This pitch was originally led all on gear, it is now fully bolted. Bring plenty extendable runners. There are about 14 bolts total.

P2. Climb the first 7 bolts of Wild Child's third pitch. Once at the 7th bolt, look right for the pitch 3 anchor below dihedral. Traverse right along narrow ledge (5.easy) placing gear along the way. Long runners are helpful, 5.8, 70 feet. Cams: 0.75-#3 help protect the traverse to the anchor.

P3. Awesome stemming up past 5 bolts in the corner above, followed by a wild top out onto belay ledge. (The 5th bolt is in the overhang almost behind you, gives protection at your waist as you mantle and keeps rope away from flake), 5.10-, 50 feet.

P4. Climb the obvious, steep hand/offwidth crack above passing a large chockstone. Follow a thin crack above, stepping left and up the face. #5 & #6 (optional) Camalots are helpful, 5.10-, 60 feet.

Variation 1 to P4 - finish on the last pitch of Wild Child.

Variation 2 to P4 - climb the first 3 bolts on Wild Child's last pitch, but continue up and left up the corner, then stepping left at the chockstone and thin crack on E.O.B. (this skips the greasy, bird poop offwidth and allows you to climb the whole thing with single set of cams to #3).

Location 

Start: begin just uphill from Wild Child and left of Challenger at an obvious V notch above an overhang.

Descent: rappel down Wild Child or walk off.

It is also possible to reach the 3rd pitch dihedral by climbing the first 3 pitches of Wild Child then rapping down to the anchor at the base of the dihedral.

Protection 

P1. 14 bolts (?), many long runners, helps to extent all bolts starting at 5 up to the one in the roof.

P2. Many long runners, #0.75 - #3 Camalot.

P3. 5 quickdraws.

P4. SR-#4 optional #5.

One may also do P3 of Wild Child , and rap into p.3 of E.O.B if you only have quickdraws.


Photos of Eye of the Beholder Slideshow Add Photo
Rock Climbing Photo: Route topo. Wild Child is the left line, Eye of th...
BETA PHOTO: Route topo. Wild Child is the left line, Eye of th...
Rock Climbing Photo: P1 before the bolts were added.
P1 before the bolts were added.
Rock Climbing Photo: Jason Haas on P1.
Jason Haas on P1.
Rock Climbing Photo: SJ coming up the last slab on P1.
SJ coming up the last slab on P1.
Rock Climbing Photo: General protection bolt locations in green.
BETA PHOTO: General protection bolt locations in green.
Rock Climbing Photo: P2.
P2.
Rock Climbing Photo: Jason about to commit to the mantel.
Jason about to commit to the mantel.
Rock Climbing Photo: P2 traverse after leaving W.C. at the 5th bolt.
P2 traverse after leaving W.C. at the 5th bolt.
Rock Climbing Photo: Tony Bubb on P4.
Tony Bubb on P4.
Rock Climbing Photo: P3 dihedral.
P3 dihedral.
Rock Climbing Photo: P4.
P4.
Rock Climbing Photo: P3.
P3.
Rock Climbing Photo: Jason Haas on P1.
Jason Haas on P1.
Rock Climbing Photo: P3.
P3.
Rock Climbing Photo: P3.
P3.
Rock Climbing Photo: P3.
P3.
Rock Climbing Photo: Tony Bubb past the wideness on P4 finishing the se...
Tony Bubb past the wideness on P4 finishing the se...
Rock Climbing Photo: P3.
P3.
Rock Climbing Photo: Jason Haas and Tony Bubb on P3.
Jason Haas and Tony Bubb on P3.
Rock Climbing Photo: P4.
P4.
Rock Climbing Photo: Yellow line has been top roped, 5.10... would take...
Yellow line has been top roped, 5.10... would take...

Comments on Eye of the Beholder Add Comment
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By Sarah Meiser
From: Boulder, Colorado
Jun 22, 2016

No joke about using long runners on P1! Got on this by mistake thinking it was Wild Child and used only quickdraws. Rope drag stopped me dead in my tracks near the end of the pitch. Ended up bailing off a single bolt using all of our 70m rope. Still very dirty, but the climbing is fun.
By gregmiller7
Jun 28, 2016
rating: 5.10- 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a

Here is a good beta photo of EOB with surrounding routes. When I went back and bolted the first pitch, I followed the way I originally went while leading it on gear, hence the rope drag. There really wasn't to much rope drag while leading it on gear, perhaps because there wasn't much gear. In retrospect, I could have straightened the bolted line out on the part before the roof, though that rock looks a little more friable. It is possible to stop above the roof and belay off one bolt... OR bring some long runners. The third pitch is the best, you can rap in from Surrette ledge for that pitch, esp. if you're already up there for Wild Child. Cheers!

mountainproject.com/v/10828836...

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