Sign Up  |   Log In:Login with Facebook
REI Community
The Mission Wall
Routes Sorted
L to R R to L Alpha
Behind The Sun S 
Billy S 
Billy the Kid S 
Challenger S 
Eye of the Beholder T,S 
Garrett's Revenge S 
Gneiss Roof (AKA: Nice Ride) T 
Gneiss Route S 
Ground Control to Gumby One S 
It's Not Tou, It's Me T 
Ride The Snake T 
Rocketman S 
Three Points of Contact S 
Wild Child S 
Unsorted Routes:

Eye of the Beholder 

YDS: 5.10c French: 6b Ewbanks: 20 UIAA: VII ZA: 20 British: E2 5b PG13

   
Type:  Trad, Sport, 4 pitches, 320'
Consensus:  YDS: 5.10c French: 6b Ewbanks: 20 UIAA: VII ZA: 20 British: E2 5b [details]
FA: Greg Miller, Steve Johnson
New Route: Yes
Page Views: 1,052
Submitted By: gregsmiller on Aug 5, 2013

You & This Route  |  Other Opinions (5)
Your todo list:
Your stars:
Your rating: -none- [change]
Your ticklist: [add new tick]
Your opinion of this PAGE:    [1 person likes this page.]
Jason p.3.

Raptor Closures / Upper Canyon Road closures MORE INFO >>>

Description 

This route has some variety when it comes to the different styles of climbing on it.

P1. Do bouldery moves off the ground, heading for a shallow, left-facing corner(crux) (bolt). Continue up the face (gear then bolt) to a small, black overhang. Pull over this (gear) and establish below the face, stepping left (bolt) making thin moves passing subtle gear placements before passing another bolt. Climb up black ledgy terrain below roof (bolt). Climb up and right to a bolt in the roof and pull onto the ledge (crux). Continue up orange rock (bolt) getting on lower angled rock and passing 2 more bolts and the last bolt on wild child, 5.10c PG13, 140 feet.

  • *This pitch was originally led all on gear, even though i have added bolts you need gear to supplement sections between bolts. THIS IS NOT A SPORT pitch. A good eye is needed for gear placements.

P2. Climb the first 7 bolts of Wild Child's third pitch, once at the 7th bolt, look right for the pitch 3 anchor below dihedral. Traverse right along narrow ledge (5.easy) placing gear along the way. Long runners are helpful, 5.9 PG-13, 70 feet.

P3. Stem up past 5 bolts in the corner above, followed by a wild top out onto belay ledge. Place an optional, finger-sized cam before 5th bolt. (The 5th bolt is in the overhang almost behind you, gives protection at your waist as you mantle and keeps rope away from flake), 5.10c G, 50 feet.

  • *There is a large hanging flake at the top of the corner. This has been worked on many times to trundle it but doesn't budge. So we deemed it safe, even using it as a foot; however, if this scares you, it's totally avoidable.

P4. Climb the obvious, steep hand/offwidth crack above passing a large chockstone. Follow a thin crack above, stepping left and up the face. #5 & #6 (optional) Camalots are helpful, 5.10a/b PG-13, 60 feet.

Location 

Start: begin just uphill from Wild Child and left of Challenger at an obvious V notch above an overhang.

Descent: rappel down Wild Child or walk off.

It is also possible to reach the 3rd pitch dihedral by climbing the first 3 pitches of Wild Child then rapping down to the anchor at the base of the dihedral.

Protection 

P1. 10 bolts, many (10-12) long runners. Standard rack.

P2. Many long runners, Standard rack.

P3. 5 quickdraws, optional 0.5-0.75 before 5th bolt (long runner. possible to haul rest of rack up this pitch easily.

P4. SR-#4 thin hands-offwidth-slabby thin crack.

  • Some might find having extras in #0.3-#1 size Camalot helpful for 1st and last pitches. Nuts are not necessary for any of the pitches.


Photos of Eye of the Beholder Slideshow Add Photo
Rock Climbing Photo: P4.
P4.
Rock Climbing Photo: P1 before the bolts were added.
P1 before the bolts were added.
Rock Climbing Photo: Route topo. Wild Child is the left line, Eye of th...
BETA PHOTO: Route topo. Wild Child is the left line, Eye of th...
Rock Climbing Photo: SJ coming up the last slab on P1.
SJ coming up the last slab on P1.
Rock Climbing Photo: General protection bolt locations in green.
BETA PHOTO: General protection bolt locations in green.
Rock Climbing Photo: P2.
P2.
Rock Climbing Photo: Jason about to commit to the mantle.
Jason about to commit to the mantle.
Rock Climbing Photo: P2 traverse after leaving W.C. at the 5th bolt.
P2 traverse after leaving W.C. at the 5th bolt.
Rock Climbing Photo: P3.
P3.
Rock Climbing Photo: P3 dihedral.
P3 dihedral.
Rock Climbing Photo: P4.
P4.
Rock Climbing Photo: P3.
P3.
Rock Climbing Photo: Jason Haas on p.1.
Jason Haas on p.1.
Rock Climbing Photo: P3.
P3.
Rock Climbing Photo: P.3.
P.3.
Rock Climbing Photo: P3.
P3.
Rock Climbing Photo: Tony Bubb past the wideness on p.4 finishing the s...
Tony Bubb past the wideness on p.4 finishing the s...

Comments on Eye of the Beholder Add Comment
Show which comments
By gregmiller7
Sep 28, 2015

A good variation finish to the last pitch is to climb the first 3 bolts on Wild Child's last pitch, but continue up and left up the corner, then stepping left at the chockstone and thin crack on E.O.B. (this skips the greasy, bird poop offwidth and allows you to climb the whole thing with single set of cams to #3).

The Definitive
Climbing Resource

Inspiration & Motivation
to Fuel Your Run

Next Generation Mountain
Bike Trail Maps

Backcountry, Sidecountry
& Secret Stashes

Better Data. Better Tools.
Better Hikes!