Home - Destinations - iPhone/Android - Partners - Forum - Photos - Deals - What's New
Login with Facebook
 ADVANCED
First Buttress
Routes Sorted
L to R R to L Alpha
Ben Dunne 
Black Crack 
Boomerang 
Corner Pocket 
Creature 
Cross Eyed and Blind 
Eye of Mordor 
Floaters 
Lady Punk 
Lamda 
Push 
Sausage 
Superman 
Toymaker 
Typical Situation 
West Virginia Two-Step 

Eye of Mordor 

YDS: 5.13a French: 7c+ Ewbanks: 29 UIAA: IX+ British: E6 6c

   
Type:  Sport, Chipped, 90'
Consensus:  YDS: 5.13a French: 7c+ Ewbanks: 29 UIAA: IX+ British: E6 6c [details]
FA: Joel Brady
Season: gets sun
Page Views: 341
Submitted By: camhead on Nov 7, 2011
Good Page? 0 people like this page. Your opinion:   

You & This Route  |  Other Opinions (4)
Your todo list:
Your stars:
Your rating: -none- [change]
Your ticklist: [add new tick]

Description 

Like other routes at First Buttress, this has a series of boulder problems, separated by good rests, and ends in a dihedral.

I gave this a 13a, since that is the traditional grade, but I think that most will find it a bit soft. It is definitely the softest 13 at First Buttress. Originally it was 13b, but the upper dihedral got a drilled pocket, making the redpoint crux significantly easier. If you want the original flavor of the route, go directly from the glued jug to the fingerlock in the corner, skipping the pocket.

After the crux, move left from the corner under a roof, eventually going over it on jugs.


Location 

right of Corner Pocket


Protection 

bolts



Comments on Eye of Mordor Add Comment
Show which comments
- none yet -