Eye of Mordor  5.13a

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Type:  Sport, Chipped, 90 feet Consensus:  5.13a [details] FA:  Joel Brady Season:  gets sun Submitted By:  camhead on Nov 7, 2011 You & This Route  |  Other Opinions (3) Your todo list: Your stars: Your rating: -none- [change] Your ticklist: [add new tick]

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Description 

Like other routes at First Buttress, this has a series of boulder problems, separated by good rests, and ends in a dihedral.

I gave this a 13a, since that is the traditional grade, but I think that most will find it a bit soft. It is definitely the softest 13 at First Buttress. Originally it was 13b, but the upper dihedral got a drilled pocket, making the redpoint crux significantly easier. If you want the original flavor of the route, go directly from the glued jug to the fingerlock in the corner, skipping the pocket.

After the crux, move left from the corner under a roof, eventually going over it on jugs.

Location 

right of Corner Pocket

Protection 

bolts