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Eye Noir 

YDS: 5.9 French: 5c Ewbanks: 17 UIAA: VI ZA: 17 British: HVS 5a PG13

   
Type:  Sport, 3 pitches, 510'
Consensus:  YDS: 5.9 French: 5c Ewbanks: 17 UIAA: VI ZA: 17 British: HVS 5a [details]
FA: Bob Steed, Dan Dingle, David Whitelaw 4/08
Page Views: 297
Submitted By: Kurt Jensen on Mar 6, 2012

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Description 

starts on friction slab to ledge with 1" crack pro, followed by more bolted slab. A bit runout on all pitches, but bolts where it counts, and shiny new ones too. Everything would be in the GREAT rating until you pass through a round dark grey cavity, "the eye" on P3. shortly after that, positve edges become slimy and covered in sometimes 1-2'' of bird or bat guano, which really spices up the finish, 15' above last bolt, trying to clear slimy footholds and handholds of a toxic goop. The belay is full of it, and you then find it comes from the large flake just above, on the upper headwall, where a lot of noise was happening at sunset in 1/12 when my girlfriend and I climbed it. Bring a brush or rap after pitch 2! Shame really, the Eye is cool.

Location 

starts midway across the 3rd class right traverse ledge, just past a tree and near a nice small ledge to sit on.

Protection 

4 bolts P1 +1" cam, 3b P2, 6b (and large scrub brush) P3
Great rap rings, bring 2 60m ropes, long p2&3


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