Login with Facebook
 ADVANCED
Bracksiek's Pillar
Routes Sorted
L to R R to L Alpha
Alpinista Sista S 
B Bro T,S 
Coo Coo Cachoo S 
Cool Crack T 
Crack Class  T 
Eye-Full Tower S 
High Center S 
L'il Buckeroo S 
Lucy in the Sky T 
Mid-Eye Collision T,S 
Oatmeal Stout T 
Pre-Emptive Strike S 
Twilight Years S 

Eye-Full Tower 

YDS: 5.9- French: 5c Ewbanks: 17 UIAA: VI ZA: 16 British: HVS 4c

   
Type:  Sport, 2 pitches, 160'
Consensus:  YDS: 5.7+ French: 5a Ewbanks: 15 UIAA: V+ ZA: 13 British: MVS 4b [details]
FA: ?
Season: not raining or t-showering
Page Views: 2,089
Submitted By: Brian in SLC on Jul 21, 2008

You & This Route  |  Other Opinions (23)
Your todo list:
Your stars:
Your rating: -none- [change]
Your ticklist: [add new tick]
Your opinion of this PAGE:    [0 people like this page.]
Starting up Eye-Full Tower

Description 

Climb up the huge plates on steep jugs finishing at the belay anchor atop the first pitch. 100'. Ascend to the right, then up face to corner to top of spire. 60'. Rappel route.

Location 

Located on the north side of Bracksieck's Pillar. Follow trail to upper east side, then cut through notch to nice staging area. The route is just past the notch before the tree. Rappel route.

Protection 

Bolted. Fixed anchor belay stations. Some protection can be placed between the upper bolts on the first pitch as there's some runout. Medium size cams would suffice.


Photos of Eye-Full Tower Slideshow Add Photo
Polly Hart climbing, Eric Hobday on first belay, f...
Polly Hart climbing, Eric Hobday on first belay, f...
Eric Hobday gettin' an Eye-Full.
Eric Hobday gettin' an Eye-Full.
Keegan at the top of Eye-Full Tower. Incredible cl...
Keegan at the top of Eye-Full Tower. Incredible cl...

Comments on Eye-Full Tower Add Comment
Show which comments
By Stan Pitcher
From: SLC, UT
Jun 6, 2011

So which pitch is crux? Book said first but we thought 2nd? Medium cam recommended for shorter climbers to protect getting to the third bolt on 2nd pitch!
By Chris Volk
May 11, 2014

Incredible climb! Beware of the long runout on 1st pitch. Easy terrain on big holds, but steep and a bit unnerving, nonetheless. Second pitch also has a runout stretch on easy ramp. But this pitch is steep, airy and memorable! Climbing never reaches more than 5.7+ in difficulty. However, the runouts and exposure on the second pitch push the grade up a bit. Well worth doing!
By S.Lee
May 20, 2014
rating: 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c

Thought it was no harder than 5.8. Incredibly featured climbing. The second pitch is def the psychological crux with the amazing exposure. Couple of spots for supplementary pro if you want to place it, though the "runout" sections are incredibly featured and no problem. Will climb this route every time I get the chance.
By Patrick Woods
From: Twin Falls, ID
Apr 6, 2015
rating: 5.8+ 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c PG13

No doubt that this is my favorite route in the Hills of Castle. Nice diverse climbing, First Pitch has very solid and positive holds, (Some may find comfort in having a #1 Camalot C4 on your rack.) leading to a comfortable belay-station. Second Pitch takes you to an airy-arete with nice exposure (I consider the Arete the crux simply due to the change of mentality that comes with nothing but space below the climber.).
It doesn't hurt to tag line a second rope up for the Rappel, a 70m and 60m joined provides more than enough to safely reach Terra-Firma. =)
By Andrew Mayer
Jun 15, 2015

Pitch 2 is incredible!! 5.8 jug hauling on a very exposed arete. Route faces west and thus gets afternoon sun. I found a #1 camalot useful for the pitch 1 runout and think that a shorter climber might want a .4 or .5 on the second pitch to protect the moves before the 3rd bolt. Can easily be climbed on just the bolts though. Highly recommended!
Beyond the Guidebook:
The Definitive Climbing Resource
Inspiration & Motivation
to Fuel Your Run
Next Generation Mountain
Bike Trail Maps
Backcountry, Sidecountry
& Secret Stashes
Better Data. Better Tools.
Better Hikes!