Login with Facebook
 ADVANCED
Watchtower Main
Routes Sorted
L to R R to L Alpha
Beef Jerky T 
Benediction T 
Broken Serenity T,TR 
Confessional, The T,TR 
Crown of Thorns S 
Dark Rose S 
Dirge, The S 
Double Cross T 
Extreme Unction T,TR 
Feels like Nadine T 
Final Prayer Variation T 
Fire and Brimstone T 
Fishlips T 
Fortress T 
Garden of Eden T 
Hellfire Variation T 
Holy Grail T 
Hungry for Heaven S 
Inner Light TR 
Invocation S 
John Doe 2 T,TR 
Outer Darkness T 
Revelation, The S 
Rosary, The T 
Spirit Prison S 
Total X T,S 

Extreme Unction 

YDS: 5.10a French: 6a Ewbanks: 18 UIAA: VI+ ZA: 18 British: E1 5a

   
Type:  Trad, TR, 1 pitch, 50'
Consensus:  YDS: 5.10a French: 6a Ewbanks: 18 UIAA: VI+ ZA: 18 British: E1 5a [details]
FA: Les Ellison, Brian Smoot, and Bill Robbins, 1983
Page Views: 10,771
Submitted By: Eric Jacobsen on May 31, 2001

You & This Route  |  Other Opinions (131)
Your todo list:
Your stars:
Your rating: -none- [change]
Your ticklist: [add new tick]
Your opinion of this PAGE:    [1 person likes this page.]
Pulling the the second roof on Extreme Unction

Description 

Fun climbing on an upside-down staircase, then an easy face. The crux is at the big roof followed by another short easy face. Very varied. To find this route, follow the first main Watchtower wall around to the right into a corner and look for the upside-down staircase between two large chimmneys.

Protection 

I top-roped this route by hiking around the west end of the buttress and rapping down off a big tree. It was a bit of a hassle, but there's a nice ledge and anchors at the top of the route once you get there. For trad, there are many horizontal seams that would probably take small nuts or cams, and at least one old piton underneath the large roof.


Photos of Extreme Unction Slideshow Add Photo
reaching for the "jug"
reaching for the "jug"
After setting the first pro, enjoying the solid fi...
After setting the first pro, enjoying the solid fi...
Above the staircase on Extreme Unction in Ferguson...
Above the staircase on Extreme Unction in Ferguson...
The old man, prepping for a long reach on the crux...
The old man, prepping for a long reach on the crux...
Rapping past the crux roof on Extreme Unction in F...
Rapping past the crux roof on Extreme Unction in F...
korbin mcardle...photographer...kyle mohr.... this...
korbin mcardle...photographer...kyle mohr.... this...
Jake the snake right under the second roof. Killer...
Jake the snake right under the second roof. Killer...
Pulling the roof; this is part of the crux sequenc...
Pulling the roof; this is part of the crux sequenc...
Confessional W/o lines
BETA PHOTO: Confessional W/o lines
Falling at the crux.
Falling at the crux.
1) Extreme Unction  2) The Confessional  3)  Broke...
BETA PHOTO: 1) Extreme Unction 2) The Confessional 3) Broke...
16. Confessional 5.6 and 14. Extreme Unction 5.10a...
BETA PHOTO: 16. Confessional 5.6 and 14. Extreme Unction 5.10a...
#1?
#1?
extreme unction
extreme unction
Just after the crux.
Just after the crux.
inverted staircase
inverted staircase

Comments on Extreme Unction Add Comment
Show which comments
Comments displayed oldest to newestSkip Ahead to the Most Recent Dated Apr 9, 2013
By climbinhi
May 2, 2003

this is a awsome run...one of the best in the valley.....p.s. a good spot to smoke some herb
By Eric Jacobsen
Sep 26, 2003

You can also scramble to the top of this fairly easily from the top of the western buttress of the Watchtower.
By Andrew Gram
Administrator
From: Salt Lake City, UT
Jul 23, 2004

Those are fantastic pictures Louis/James. Well done.
By Nathan Fisher
Jun 5, 2005
rating: 5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a

A great route that protects well. We used a #2 Camalot, and then a large nut just before the easy section. Then we used a small alien, and the pin, and a #1 Camalot just over the 1st roof, and to keep the exit safe a .75 Camalot. Very awkward climb, but the moves are there and it is well worth the rush to lead this classic.
By Todd Gardner
From: Salt Lake City, UT
Jun 2, 2006
rating: 5.10a/b 6a+ 19 VI+ 19 E2 5b

Great route. One of my favorites.
By Joseph Kolnik
From: Holladay, UT
Jul 6, 2008
rating: 5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a

Very good climb, almost a classic in my book. I lead this thing strait up and later realized the guide book shows the route going to the right a bit for the first roof section. Anyway, leading this thing strait up was taxing and a bit harder than the right variation IMO.
By Price
From: SLC, UT
Oct 31, 2008

Super good lead. Let's not encourage any more top roping than this climb already gets. The protection is great.
By Christian "crisco" Burrell
From: PG, Utah
Dec 26, 2008

Should be an obligatory Utah Trad tick. Outstanding!!!
By triznuty
From: Salt Lake City, UT
Dec 29, 2008
rating: 5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a

I fully agree with Crisco! A classic must do! Don't let it intimidate you...
By Daniel Winder
Oct 1, 2010

Historical pin is no more
By Boissal
From: Small Lake, UT
Oct 1, 2010
rating: 5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a

WHAT?????
What happened?
By Daniel Winder
Oct 1, 2010

Historic status aside...there is no longer a pin on this route. So make sure the gear is bomber. Boissal, I've no idea what caused its demise but I hope it's not related to the flesh and blood draped all over the route.
By Boissal
From: Small Lake, UT
Oct 1, 2010
rating: 5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a

Flesh and blood uh? Might need to go check it out.
You can equalize a couple of .4s or better a .4 and a yellow mastercam in there. Long runners better. I've always backed up that piece anyway and there's a textbook #1 placement just above...

Now if only the TR anchors could fall off we'd be set!
By Ben Folsom
Nov 1, 2010

Someone also stole the KB piton that I put in my new route Karmic Trace on the Cathedral. So if someone is trying to put together a rack of pins for their first nail up big wall, instead of stealing them off my route and others, why don't you just PM me and I'll give you whatever pins you need.
By Matt Park
Jul 26, 2011

Super fun route, the top of the "upside-down staircase" can be hard for shorter people, if you don't lay back on the rail to the left then move your feet up and get into the first little crack. but all in all its an amazing climb!
By Murphski
From: SLC, UT
Aug 7, 2011

Wow, I attempted this route about a year ago and blew a cam out of a horizontal above the historical pin. Coming down head first (the pull of the cam must have brought me into the wall, flipping me upside down when my feet hit) I can confidently say that pin saved my life. So did someone work the pin out on purpose, or did it come out from a fall?
By Mark SLC
From: Salt Lake City, UT
Sep 3, 2011

Yeah textbook placements, no pin needed on this amazing route. Yellow and orange metolius under the roof w single runners, both bomber, and as for the #1 in the horizontal, like Boissal says, it doesn't get any more textbook than that - try working it in towards the left for a tighter fit
By Andrew Gram
Administrator
From: Salt Lake City, UT
Sep 13, 2012

This route is like a little slice of the Gunks dropped in the Wasatch.
By Skat B
From: Down Rodeo
Apr 9, 2013
rating: 5.10- 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a

Such a unique route that is a must do in the Wasatch Front! Slick slab with great hand holds. Just plug in a red #1 C4 under the 2nd roof and go for it!