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Extra Crimpy Chicken T,S 
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Extra Crimpy Chicken 

YDS: 5.11d French: 7a Ewbanks: 24 UIAA: VIII ZA: 25 British: E5 6a

   
Type:  Trad, Sport, 1 pitch, 95'
Consensus:  YDS: 5.11d French: 7a Ewbanks: 24 UIAA: VIII ZA: 25 British: E5 6a [details]
FA: Bruce Burgess, Andy Kluge - 1998
Season: Sping, Summer, Fall
Page Views: 1,580
Submitted By: gneiss pirate on Nov 8, 2009

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Description 

Or should it be Extra-Extra Crimpy Chicken? A sustained adventure in technical face climbing nirvana.

Climb past two bolts to reach a gear pod. Now, summon the crimp gods and begin the adventure. Crimp and pimp, up the delicious face past a number of bolts to a great jug. Plug in more small gear and fire out the last few hard moves to reach a welcome and timely double bolt anchor.

Location 

Starts left of Bombelay about 25 ft.

Protection 

Bolts, doubles in tcu's to blue.


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By esingleton
Oct 22, 2012

I left 4 cararbiners on the anchor. I think this is a good temporary fix until we put screw links or rap rings on them. Now you can be lowered off the top without running your rope through those gigantic hangers.

Amazing line! Super sequential with some small holds
By TomCaldwell
From: Clemson, S.C.
4 days ago

There are quicklinks and rap rings on the anchor now. I know that double TCU's are recommended, but some of those slots pod in the back. It is better to place sideways nuts instead so they bite on the top and bottom of the eyebrows. Less chance to walk after moving past the placement. I would also recommend one larger piece like pink tricam or .5 C4 after the second bolt, but nothing larger.