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Unsorted Routes:

Extendorigine 

YDS: 5.12c French: 7b+ Ewbanks: 27 UIAA: IX- British: E6 6b

   
Type: Sport, 1 pitch
Consensus:  YDS: 5.12c French: 7b+ Ewbanks: 27 UIAA: IX- British: E6 6b [details]
FA: Ben Gilkison
Page Views: 466
Submitted By: Drewsky on Apr 30, 2010
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Description 

It's true: ANOTHER extension to Aborigine now exists!!! This entertaining and somewhat adventurous addition provides another 60+ feet of climbing on mostly clean rock. There is only one questionable section of rock: a pile of loose-looking blocks right above the Technorigine anchor that must be surmounted to reach better rock above. There are two cruxes: one in the middle and one passing a bulge near the top of the route. The rating is merely a rough estimate, since you can get a full rest at the Technorigine anchor.


Location 

Start on Aborigine, climb through Technorigine and keep on trucking. A 70m rope will lower from the top anchor to the Technorigine anchor. Pull the rope here and lower again. Don't mess around with shorter rope lengths on this one and tie knots in the end of your rope!


Protection 

Bolts: Mostly fixed but you will need 4 or 5 quickdraws. The anchor is not currently set up with safe lowering hardware, so bring carabiners. With 4 bolts in 60 feet, the climbing is a little spicier than the lower sections of the route but fear not: the falls are clean as long as your belayer isn't an idiot!



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By Ben Gilkison
Jan 30, 2014

Drew, I graded this overall 12c since I thought the extension 12a. With the full recovery rest and difficulty that is substantially less potent on the extension terrain than the Techno terrain, I think 12c is fair. More involved yes, but harder, I don't think so. Or, I would argue so.

By Drewsky
Feb 7, 2014

I fell on the extension and never went back to redpoint it. It hurt my ego, so I rated it harder.