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YDS: 5.12c French: 7b+ Ewbanks: 27 UIAA: IX- ZA: 27 British: E6 6b

Type:  Sport, 1 pitch
Consensus:  YDS: 5.12c French: 7b+ Ewbanks: 27 UIAA: IX- ZA: 27 British: E6 6b [details]
FA: Ben Gilkison
Page Views: 765
Submitted By: Drewsky on Apr 30, 2010

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Bolting and cleaning before the FFA.


It's true: ANOTHER extension to Aborigine now exists!!! This entertaining and somewhat adventurous addition provides another 60+ feet of climbing on mostly clean rock. There is only one questionable section of rock: a pile of loose-looking blocks right above the Technorigine anchor that must be surmounted to reach better rock above. There are two cruxes: one in the middle and one passing a bulge near the top of the route. The rating is merely a rough estimate, since you can get a full rest at the Technorigine anchor.


Start on Aborigine, climb through Technorigine and keep on trucking. A 70m rope will lower from the top anchor to the Technorigine anchor. Pull the rope here and lower again. Don't mess around with shorter rope lengths on this one and tie knots in the end of your rope!


Bolts: Mostly fixed but you will need 4 or 5 quickdraws. The anchor is not currently set up with safe lowering hardware, so bring carabiners. With 4 bolts in 60 feet, the climbing is a little spicier than the lower sections of the route but fear not: the falls are clean as long as your belayer isn't an idiot!

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Rock Climbing Photo: Longest route at Little Si?  Great way to top the ...
Longest route at Little Si? Great way to top the ...

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By Ben Gilkison
Jan 30, 2014

Drew, I graded this overall 12c since I thought the extension 12a. With the full recovery rest and difficulty that is substantially less potent on the extension terrain than the Techno terrain, I think 12c is fair. More involved yes, but harder, I don't think so. Or, I would argue so.
By Drewsky
Feb 7, 2014

I fell on the extension and never went back to redpoint it. It hurt my ego, so I rated it harder.
By Thune
Jul 21, 2014
rating: 5.12c 7b+ 27 IX- 27 E6 6b R

This is a fun addition to Abo/Techno. I added an R to the 12c rating. The climbing is well protected at the cruxes but there are some run-out sections on the easier ground. I also noticed a loose nut on the second to last bolt. I cranked it down as best as possible but you may want to bring up a wrench.
Take your time, relax and enjoy this adventure!
By Thune
May 4, 2015
rating: 5.12c 7b+ 27 IX- 27 E6 6b R

Alright, the bolts have been tightened and the draws are fixed. You no longer have any excuses so try something new and get on this journey of a route.

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