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World Wall
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Unsorted Routes:

Extended Evil 

YDS: 5.14a French: 8b+ Ewbanks: 32 UIAA: X+ British: E8 7a

   
Type:  Sport, 1 pitch, 120'
Consensus:  YDS: 5.14a French: 8b+ Ewbanks: 32 UIAA: X+ British: E8 7a [details]
FA: Erik Kubiak (or Mike Orr???)
Page Views: 1,674
Submitted By: Drewsky on Jul 20, 2008
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Description 

Combines the lower cruxes of Doctor Evil with the crux of Illness/Extended Illness. Awesome linkup of two classic lines. Probably not a whole lot harder than Doctor Evil but the second crux certainly requires a bit more endurance. As stated below, local mythology has it that originally the line was pushed directly up to the crux of Extended Illness, skipping the kneebar rest on Chronic. Move three feet left into the kneebar and make it .14a or be a real rock star and skip it for .14b!


Location 

Heads left from Dr. Evil after the crux moves via thin climbing, then finishes as for Illness/Extended Illness.


Protection 

Bolts, currently (and usually) fixed. Otherwise, probably about 15-16 quickdraws.



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By Ben Gilkison
Jan 30, 2014

I've heard the FA party that originally graded this 14b climbed a slightly more direct bouldery move into the Extended Illness crux and avoided the obvious knee bar...and also took the climb to the Lizard King (i.e. the top anchor). I think most people have used the obvious rest and stopped at the Extended Illness anchor. Done this way I think 14a, just like Dr. Evil. IMO.

By Drewsky
Feb 5, 2014

Skipping rests for harder grades. Classic. Plus it's probably easier than Dr. Evil if you actually do the contrived upper boulder problem on that route instead of climbing 4 feet right on the Oval Orifice jugs.