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Expressway 

YDS: 5.11b French: 6c Ewbanks: 23 UIAA: VIII- ZA: 23 British: E3 5c

   
Type:  Sport, 1 pitch, 80'
Original:  YDS: 5.11b French: 6c Ewbanks: 23 UIAA: VIII- ZA: 23 British: E3 5c [details]
FA: Tom Herbert, Sean Greer & Todd Vogel, June 1990
Page Views: 5,349
Submitted By: Tom Helvie on Jul 21, 2006

You & This Route  |  Other Opinions (106)
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Trying to out climb the impending rain. Featuring...

Description 

One of the classic Tom Herbert "E" series, this is an immensely popular climb. The climb starts with technical, slick edging slowly turning into steeper pumpy edging and finally jugs towards the top. Most people head out left at the last bolt, but its possible to finish straight up on pockets. Very high quality classic.

Protection 

8 quickdraws to mussy hooks


Photos of Expressway Slideshow Add Photo
Rock Climbing Photo: Craig on Expressway. 5-15-10
Craig on Expressway. 5-15-10
Rock Climbing Photo: Mark on Expressway. 5-15-10
Mark on Expressway. 5-15-10
Rock Climbing Photo: And so it begins.....
And so it begins.....
Rock Climbing Photo: Craig on Expressway. 5-15-10
Craig on Expressway. 5-15-10
Rock Climbing Photo: Mark on Expressway. 5-15-10
Mark on Expressway. 5-15-10
Rock Climbing Photo: Craig on Expressway. 5-15-10
Craig on Expressway. 5-15-10
Rock Climbing Photo: espressway
espressway

Comments on Expressway Add Comment
Show which comments
By Chris Owen
Administrator
From: Big Bear Lake
Oct 19, 2006
rating: 5.11b 6c 23 VIII- 23 E3 5c

So Mike Newheart, all ticked off at our whiney indecision, jumps on the wall literally tearing at the rock from the bowels of the earth, it's a sight to see, the toughest guy I ever met, at his toughest. The crux spits him off more than once. He lowers off mumbling "man, that's the hardest 10a I've ever been on"....
By Adam Stackhouse
Administrator
Dec 28, 2006
rating: 5.11b 6c 23 VIII- 23 E3 5c

One of the best climbs at Owens. Crimpy and Classic!!!
By Brad "Stonyman" Killough
Administrator
From: Alabama
Jan 30, 2009

Great photo Russ.
By Rick D
From: Reno, NV
Mar 28, 2009

So much fun! Super sustained.
By Callie Rennison
From: Boulder, Colorado
Aug 16, 2009

I love this route! Awesome!
By Eric Schnepel
From: Portland
Mar 19, 2011

Good and fun 5.11 climbing all the way up. Decent rest stances can be found almost at will.
By Nikki Schnupp
From: Hudson, Ohio
Feb 18, 2013

Fun the whole way! Crimpy and balancey at the bottom--especially for short people; juggy (relatively) and pumpy at the top. I recommend going straight up (slightly right, actually) for more fun. One of my favorite routes anywhere.
By andy patterson
Administrator
From: Carpinteria, CA
Mar 31, 2013

Don't cheat yourself by climbing out left by the last bolt. It's more fun and sustained to climb direct!
By another Chad
Jun 12, 2015
rating: 5.11- 6c 22 VIII+ 22 E3 5c

Great climb. Reminded me a bit of Smith Rock's Heinous Cling, though easier and less scary.

Chad
By Simon W
From: Salt Lake City, UT
Nov 9, 2015

Got on this climb again today for the first time in a few years.

It is indeed excellent.

Harder than Photon Torpedo by a considerable margin in my opinion.

Oh, and the cheater stump is gone.

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