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By kennoyce
From Layton, UT
Jul 1, 2014
Climbing at the Gallery in Red Rocks
Patrick Shyvers wrote:
Something I've been wondering about that plays in to Gregger Man's photo... the bolt is the piece with the highest replacement cost. So are there opportunities for cathodic protection? Simple example, use the hangar as the sacrificial anode. This concentrates any corrosion on the hangar, which is trivially replaced.



This isn't a good idea. Generally, having a sacrificial anode will induce localized pitting on the cathode (i.e. the stainless bolt) with will then lead to localized corrosion and weakening of the bolt much more quickly then just using like metals.

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By Gregger Man
Jul 2, 2014
gg
teece303 wrote:
Heck, if Gregger Man ever wants to share with me some of his bolt removal wisdom, I will gladly buy him a case of beer or something... The work and knowledge is appreciated.


Send me the dates/times you are available. I've got many more anchors that look like Werk Supp did on my radar. I'll talk tools all day if you like.

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By Matty H
Jul 4, 2014
Top of pear buttress
I apologize for my original post. What I said was a total jerk move. Im sorry to those of you i offended, I am underqualified to judge the placement of a bolt and was totally off base. Sorry about that guys, but thanks for setting me straight. I learned more through this. Once again, I apologize for my statement.

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By Gregger Man
Jul 4, 2014
gg
Matty H wrote:
I apologize for my original post. What I said was a total jerk move. Im sorry to those of you i offended, I am underqualified to judge the placement of a bolt and was totally off base. Sorry about that guys, but thanks for setting me straight. I learned more through this. Once again, I apologize for my statement.

No worries, Matty.
This post was quite productive, actually. Anything that gets more climbers interested in route maintenance is fine by me. If you see other bolts that you think are ticking time bombs, photograph them and post 'em up.
Cheers,
-gg

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By Patrick Shyvers
From Fort Collins, CO
Jul 4, 2014
Me
Matty H wrote:
I apologize for my original post. What I said was a total jerk move. Im sorry to those of you i offended, I am underqualified to judge the placement of a bolt and was totally off base. Sorry about that guys, but thanks for setting me straight. I learned more through this. Once again, I apologize for my statement.


Now that's a sign of strong character!

FLAG
By Hank Caylor
Administrator
From Golden, CO
Jul 4, 2014
Yoda
I clipped this on Ottos Route this morning. I think it's the same bolter.
Mank
Mank

FLAG
By nicelegs
From Denver
Jul 4, 2014
Patrick Shyvers wrote:
Now that's a sign of strong character!


I disagree. He was overwhelmingly wrong so had no choice but to admit it.

A strong character asks questions about things they don't know rather than flying off the handle.

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By Geir
From Tucson, AZ
Jul 4, 2014
Toofast
nicelegs wrote:
I disagree. He was overwhelmingly wrong so had no choice but to admit it. A strong character asks questions about things they don't know rather than flying off the handle.


Nah, I think he was strong to apologize.

Well done Matt.

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