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East End Wall
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Daywalker T 
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Experimental Forrest T 
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Ultraviolet Ammunition T 

Experimental Forrest 

YDS: 5.10+ French: 6b+ Ewbanks: 21 UIAA: VII+ ZA: 20 British: E3 5b

Type:  Trad, 80'
Original:  YDS: 5.10+ French: 6b+ Ewbanks: 21 UIAA: VII+ ZA: 20 British: E3 5b [details]
FA: Flagstaff Oldschool, and Wade Forrest on the direct finish
New Route: Yes
Page Views: 626
Submitted By: Tradoholic on May 28, 2012

You & This Route  |  Other Opinions (7)
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James Q Martin moving into the airy .10+ direct fi...


Located right of Rapture this starts with a nice hand crack (one bolt, 5.9) then traverses left to a boulder problem with two bolts to a short juggy finish. Alternatively, you can make this 5.9 by continuing straight up after the hand crack terminates.


Climbers right of Rapture, rap in to an inside corner with a bolted belay. From the top there's a prow of rock sticking out, rap from the left side for Experimental Forrest (if looking out into the canyon) and the right side for Rapture.


Three bolts, a few hand size pieces and maybe a purple TCU to protect the traverse.

Photos of Experimental Forrest Slideshow Add Photo
Rock Climbing Photo: Topo.
Rock Climbing Photo: Kevin P., cleaning it up.
Kevin P., cleaning it up.
Rock Climbing Photo: James, setting up for a big, reachy move right.
James, setting up for a big, reachy move right.
Rock Climbing Photo: James, working through the 5.9 hand crack section.
James, working through the 5.9 hand crack section.
Rock Climbing Photo: The start.
BETA PHOTO: The start.

Comments on Experimental Forrest Add Comment
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By JJ Schlick
From: Flagstaff, AZ
May 30, 2012

A good, physical line with an exciting finish.
By Wade Forrest
May 31, 2012

I used a grey ghost with a purple tcu slotted on top of it to protect the traverse, makes it pretty bomber. I spent alot of time removing death blocks from the top of the pillar but did not clean what is referred to as the alternate finish. So heads up if choosing that path. I took the route left in order to create a clean, safe & varied experience. Thanks for posting!
By Darren Mabe
From: Flagstaff, AZ
May 31, 2012

'Grey ghost' ha! Love it
By Tradoholic
May 31, 2012

Yes, the easy finish had some potential loose stuff, take care when going that way.

Looks like some pretty sweet thin crack lines in between this and Rapture, any info on those?
By JMo
From: Tucson, AZ
Sep 21, 2015

I love this climb. i'd just go ahead and bring singles plus what you want for 25 feet of hands. It protects like a dream. Description makes it sound like a couple 2's and a small cam will protect the 50 feet that are not bolted. You do the math. The grey rock and lateral movement on this climb and phantasm will inhabit your dreams.

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