Experimental Forrest 5.10+
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| Type: | Trad, 80 feet |
| Consensus: | 5.10+ [details] |
| FA: | Flagstaff Oldschool, and Wade Forrest on the direct finish |
| New Route: | Yes |
| Submitted By: | Trad Nanny on May 28, 2012 |
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James Q Martin moving into the airy .10+ direct fi...
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Description Located right of Rapture this starts with a nice hand crack (one bolt, 5.9) then traverses left to a boulder problem with two bolts to a short juggy finish. Alternatively, you can make this 5.9 by continuing straight up after the hand crack terminates.
Location Climbers right of Rapture, rap in to an inside corner with a bolted belay. From the top there's a prow of rock sticking out, rap from the left side for Experimental Forrest (if looking out into the canyon) and the right side for Rapture.
Protection Three bolts, a few hand size pieces and maybe a purple TCU to protect the traverse.
Kevin P., cleaning it up.
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James, working through the 5.9 hand crack section.
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James, setting up for a big, reachy move right.
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BETA PHOTO: Topo.
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BETA PHOTO: The start.
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| Comments on Experimental Forrest |
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By JJ Schlick
Administrator
From: Flagstaff, AZ
May 30, 2012
| A good, physical line with an exciting finish. |
By Wade Forrest
May 31, 2012
| I used a grey ghost with a purple tcu slotted on top of it to protect the traverse, makes it pretty bomber. I spent alot of time removing death blocks from the top of the pillar but did not clean what is referred to as the alternate finish. So heads up if choosing that path. I took the route left in order to create a clean, safe & varied experience. Thanks for posting! |
By Darren Mabe
From: Flagstaff, AZ
May 31, 2012
| 'Grey ghost' ha! Love it |
By Trad Nanny
May 31, 2012
| Yes, the easy finish had some potential loose stuff, take care when going that way.
Looks like some pretty sweet thin crack lines in between this and Rapture, any info on those? |
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